Ayutthaya Travel Blog

group of ayutthaya temple ruins and chedis

The whole world knows Bangkok is Thailand’s capital, but my mom and I were curious about the ancient Thailand “Siam’s Capital Ayutthaya.” It’s a once-great capital, now Ayutthaya is known for Historical park full of temple ruins, making it one of the most beautiful travel destinations in Thailand.

In this Ayutthaya travel blog, Ishare the stories of this ancient city, covering both underrated and overrated Ayutthaya temple ruins, architectural features (of course, I am an architect turned travel writer), and travel tips to help you plan your trip. Additionally, there is a list of things to do in Ayutthaya beyond visiting temple ruins.

Index

  1. Why visit Ayutthaya?
  2. How to reach?
  3. How to get around the town
  4. How many days to spend here and when to visit?
  5. Where to stay?
  6. Ayutthaya-Sukhothai- Lopburi: What is the difference
  7. Guide to exploring the ruins 
  8. List of Ayutthaya sites
    • The Top three sites
    • Not-so impressive temples
  9. Things to do in Ayutthaya other than the temples
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Read our post ” Complete Travel Guide to Thailand for 2 Weeks” to get tips on other places to visit in Thailand, using public transportation, getting tourist Visa – It is your perfect guide for planning your trip to Thailand

1. Is it worth going to Ayutthaya, Thailand?

It’s absolutely worth visiting Ayutthaya because experiencing ancient Siam in a small town is amazing. While Bangkok represents today’s Thailand, Ayutthaya narrates stories of Siam. The local food in small towns is always tastier, and I particularly love Ayutthaya’s cuisine, rivaling even that of Sukhothai. Surprisingly, this town has avoided mass tourism despite having all the amenities that any tourist-centric small town in a developing nation should.

group of beautiful  ayutthaya temple ruins and exposed foundation of ancient siam palaces

To cap it off, Ayutthaya boasts a unique attraction found nowhere else globally – the Buddha’s head embedded in a banyan tree at Wat Mahathat is the town’s highlight and takes the top spot on the list of things to do in Ayutthaya.

Ayutthaya Historical Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site hosts hundreds of ancient brick temples, aside from Wat Mahathat. While you might have glimpsed Wats in Phuket, jogging in the early morning beside 200+-year-old Ayutthaya temple ruins or taking a boat ride to observe those towering chedi ruins gives you a unique experience. Moreover, Ayutthaya is more affordable compared to many places in Thailand, like Bangkok and Pattaya.


2. How do you get to Ayutthaya?

You can travel to Ayutthaya by train or road. The town has its own railway station, situated just 3km from Ayutthaya Historical Park.

passengers sleeping on seatings on platform beside railway tracks at ayutthaya railway station

From the station, you can either walk to the town or opt for a private tuk tuk ride, readily available for passengers outside the train station. Alternatively, if you prefer to save more, wait for a songthaew – a local mini-bus that operates on specific schedules. Before boarding, confirm with the driver if they travel to your destination and agree on the fare.

Ayutthaya is located in central Thailand, approximately 90 km north of Bangkok. If you’re considering flying, the nearest airport to Ayutthaya is Bangkok.

Book your train or bus tickets to Ayutthaya on 12Go Asia – Thai Railway website isn’t user friendly, just like India’s. Plus 12Go Asia shows best options with timings and other modes of transportation in any

How can I go to Ayutthaya from Bangkok?

  • By Train – Numerous trains depart from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. A common route for tourists is Ayutthaya-Phitsanulok, especially for reaching Sukhothai. Opt for the express train with an AC coach to save time and energy.
  • By Minivans: There are few buses from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, but there are plenty of minivan services available. They accommodate up to 10 passengers. Book at least 15 days in advance – they get sold out pretty fast. We traveled from Bangkok to Ayutthaya by minivan – it’s a bit snug, but not too bothersome as it takes only one hour to reach from Bangkok to Ayutthaya

The Chao Phraya River cruise from Bangkok to Ayutthaya does exist. However, exercise caution due to reported scams associated with such river cruises. While taking a private taxi from Bangkok to Ayutthaya is an option, considering the efficient, reliable, and economical public transportation available, opting for public transport is a sensible choice.


3. How to travel in and Around Ayutthaya.

The best way to explore Ayutthaya is on foot, as we did. Boat rides in Ayutthaya are more about the experience and sightseeing rather than serving as a mode of transport.

two tourists walking in ayutthaya temple ruins holding an umbrella under hot sun

For visiting temple ruins outside the Ayutthaya Historical Park, renting a cycle or moped is a good idea – Your guesthouse hosts can help you with this and pre-booking isn’t needed. If the weather is too hot or you’re not in the mood, songthaews and tuk-tuks are available. While you can hire tuk-tuks for the whole day, keep in mind that they are more expensive. Since Ayutthaya isn’t a massive town, I highly recommend walking or cycling to get around.


4 How Many Days to Spend in Ayutthaya, Thailand?

Spend a minimum of two days in Ayutthaya to savor the place, at least on the surface. The UNESCO Heritage site is a treasure of mysteries for archaeologists. As laymen, we must wander for two days to realize its beauty. If you are in Ayutthaya for more than three days, you have all the luxury of time to explore temple ruins in the outskirts.

Can you do a day trip to Ayutthaya from Bangkok?

You can make a day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, but I don’t recommend it. There is much more to explore in Ayutthaya Historical park than just seeing the Buddha head of Wat Mahathat or Ratchaburana, which are undoubtedly stunning. However, the true joy of Ayutthaya lies in wandering. You don’t usually get to take early morning walks around century-old chedis and Wats with birds chirping as the first rays of the sun touch your skin.

two brick cchedis surrounded by green seen from above at wat ratchaburana in ayutthaya

Best time of the year to visit Ayutthaya

Winters are the best time to visit Ayutthaya, from November to January, due to better temperatures. It doesn’t mean the town has a cold breeze and temperatures like 15°C in winter, but it won’t be as scorching as it would be in summer. February afternoons can reach temperatures as high as 35°C. However, avoid any travel plans to Ayutthaya during the Christmas week to the first week of January (or even to Thailand, for that matter). Prices and crowds are too high.

We visited Ayutthaya in July, a good time for those looking for lower-budget trips but challenging weather. Although June to August was supposedly the wettest month in Ayutthaya, we didn’t experience even a passing shower.


5. Where to stay in Ayutthaya?

Ayutthaya is a small town, making it easy to choose the right neighborhood. I recommend you opting for accommodation near Ayutthaya Historical Park and avoiding areas close to Chao Phrom market or the railway station – They are vibrant and full of life (and noise) even late night

partially aerial view of a coronation hall beside ayutthaya road side with modern buildings on the other side of the road

Ayutthaya accommodations are more cheaper than Bangkok and Phuket. For instance, you can find decent lodging with an attached toilet for 800 baht per night downtown. Guesthouses near Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana are popular and the best.

Riverside guest houses may seem appealing during a boat ride to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, but it’s better to avoid them due to unpleasant odors and poorly-maintained water. If you still prefer riverside hotels, opt for a slightly more expensive option like Sala by the riverside

guesthouses and residences on the banks of ill maintained unclean river chao phraya river in ayutthaya

Bes Places to stay in Ayutthaya

The most famous, and probably the most expensive hotel in Ayutthaya, Sala Ayutthaya by the riverside costs around 6000 baht per night- They got pools and dining area overlooking the river and Wat Phutthai Sawan temple. They offer a pool overlooking temple ruins. Another good mid-range budget option is Luang Chumni Village.

For affordable guesthouses, go for Binlar Guesthouse. We stayed here and is a super budget-friendly option with AC. It was comfy and sits right in front of Ratchaburana. The hosts are kind, and the rooms are clean.

Siri Guesthouse was my next choice. Niwas Ayutthaya is also good but room ensuite bathroom was sold out while I booked.


6. What should I visit – Ayutthaya, Sukhothai or Lopburi?

It can be confusing to decide whether to visit Ayutthaya or Sukhothai. To add to your confusion, another historical Temple city Lopburi also comes into the picture. After returning from my 2-week trip to Thailand, this is probably the most common question I was asked: What should I visit in Thailand to see Siam?

What is the difference between Ayutthaya and Sukhothai?

Sukhothai was the initial capital of Siam after gaining independence from the Khmer of Cambodia. Following the collapse of Sukhothai, Ayutthaya became the capital.

During the Ayutthaya era, Lopburi held the position of the second most important city with significant influence from the Indian subcontinent. The size of the Historical Park decreases in the following order – Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Lopburi. The weather remains similar in all three towns throughout the year. However, Sukhothai feels slightly cooler due to the surrounding village woods.

With my below comparisons, you will be able to decide which one to visit to feel Kingdom of Siam

brick chedi  in front of water Lilly pond at sukhothai historical park in thailand

If you Visit Sukhothai:

Sukhothai archaeological ruins nestled in woods and remote villages.

Sukhothai massage and food stand out as the best in Thailand.

The New Sukhothai is away from Historical park

Common next stops include Chiang Mai in the North or Ayutthaya in Central Thailand.

vacaywork author sahana with her mother at the entrance gate of wat ratchaburana in ayutthaya

If plan a trip to Ayutthaya, know that

Ayutthaya’s ruins are located mostly within 5km from the town; some temples on the riverbanks.

Modern city developed around Ayutthaya Historical park – Kind of merged within temple ruins

Common next stops: Bangkok to the South, Maeklong or Kanchanaburi in the west, and Sukhothai to the west.

three cambodian style temples by the road side fenced by gate at lopburi in thailand

Before you plan a trip to Lopburi, know that

Lopburi’s ruins resemble Ayutthaya, with a notable influence from Indian architecture.

Renowned for its monkeys, often called the “Monkey town of Thailand.”

Hiking trails offer a village view from the top, with monkeys considered a sign of good luck.

Common next stops: Sukhothai or Chiang Mai in the North.


7. Travel tips to explore Ayutthaya ruins 

During your Ayutthaya trip, exploring temple ruins takes the top place in list of thing do. So you must know a few things before you go:

How many temple ruins are there in Ayutthaya Historical Park?

The boundaries of the World Heritage Historical Park cover 90+ sites. 65+ temples are brick temple ruins, and the other temples are either brick mounds or with the slightest traces of a brick foundation. With urbanization, many monasteries and temples have vanished. So you never know – the guest house you are staying in may be built on top of a century-old building.

With a massive number of 90 Ayutthaya temple ruins, it doesn’t make sense to visit each one of them. It gets boring to visit similar wats and Chedis. Following the Ayutthaya map to some Wat may lead you to a brick mound. So do a little research before you go.

Do you need a guide in Ayutthaya?

You don’t need a tour guide in Ayutthaya. The historical significance and facts are displayed in each Ayutthaya temple ruin very precisely. Hiring a guide may limit the time you spend as you wish unless you want to know more about each ruin’s religious importance and history.

In this small town, tuk-tuk drivers, boat rowers, and cafe owners understand English decently. So, you can wander with locals’ help and without an official Ayutthaya trip organizer.

Are you allowed to take pictures of Buddha statues?

Yes you can take pictures of Buddha statues in Ayutthaya provided, both the photographer and the person posing should sit. Thai people find it disrespectful if you take photos in any other way. Dress appropriately by covering shoulders and knees. Many of Ayutthaya temple ruins are still active, and monks come to worship at the sites.

Can you explore Ayutthaya Ruins by walking?

You can explore Ayutthaya Historical Park and other temple ruins within a 3km radius (which is plenty) by walking. If you want to visit places like Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, take a tuk-tuk ride or rent a moped.

Tips to explore Ayutthaya temple ruins by foot

  • 10 AM to 4 PM is when the crowd is more as tourists making a day trip arrive at 10 AM.
  • Start walking early in the morning, return to your room, or relax in a cafe from 12 to 3. The heat is prickly and sure to give you a headache. I have a migraine headache problem. The heat was so bad by 12 that my head was about to explode. We almost lost half a day until I felt better. No tablet could help me until the boat rower gave me some random white pill while going to Wat Chaiwatthanaram.
  • Walking in the isolated historical sites at any time during the day is safe.
buddhas statue in meditation pose wrapped in yellow silk clothe at ayutthaya temple ruins

Is there an entry fee for Ayutthaya Historical Park?

Only some of the Ayutthaya temple ruins have an entrance ticket, charging you less than 50 Baht. The rest are free. You can buy individual tickets or a combo ticket to enter all the temples that need a paid entry ticket. Don’t go for the combo ticket unless you are sure of visiting all those sites on the same day (which is very likely impossible because of the sun and heat).

side view of wat ratchaburana seen from road

Can i go clubbing in Ayutthaya after visiting temples?

Yes and no – If you are comparing the nightlife of Phuket and Bangkok to Ayutthaya, you would be disappointed. But Ayutthaya does have a low-profile nightlife. Though this is a historic city with many holy sites, many bars and clubs play loud music in the evening serving alcohols. The definition of Ayutthaya nightlife is listening to music and sippin beer – End of the story.

an indian lady sitting at a local restaurant in ayutthaya adorned with lights at night

Ayutthaya Food

Lunch and dinner are not a problem even for vegans and vegetarians. However, the town wakes up a bit late in the morning! Especially for early morning people like my Mom, it was hard to find a cart selling hot coffee at 7. Most restaurants open by 11 AM! Literally there was only one cafe that was open by 8 in the morning.

a street side cafe in ayutthaya showing outdoor furnitures in the morning

8. List of Ayutthaya Temple Ruins

Each temple in Ayutthaya is a collection of chedis and structures. Wat Mahathat itself had so many chedis, temples, and hundreds of Buddha statues and elephant structures around Buddha’s head in routes that you can keep walking for a whole day here. What we planned and ended up doing is a lot different. The sun won over us. We often sat where there was shade. So take it easy, spend more time in each place than trying to visit each temple ruin.

The list of Ayutthaya temples we visited

  1. Mahathat – The most famous Buddha embedded in the tree
  2. Ratchaburana – A ruin that reminds you of Angkor wat temple
  3. Chaiwatthanaram – Riverside temple with towering pinpointed chedis surrounding the main temple.
  4. Phromniwas Worawihan – a modern typical Thai temple by the riverside.
  5. Phutthaisawan – The combination of Pagoda and tower temple by the riverside. 
  6. Suwannavas Three brick chedis by the roadside

Other temples we had planned to visit

  1. Phra Si Sanphet – Ground of Chedis 
  2. Yai Chaimongkol – Active temple with multiple Buddha statues
  3. Phu Khao Thong – Unique of all, wider at base resembling Wat Arun
  4. Lokayasutharam – Giant sleeping Buddha
  5. Thammikarat – Monastery with lion statues at the bottom. 

The Best Three Ayutthaya Temple Ruins you must visit

a. Wat Ratchaburana

Ratchaburana is a fine example of the Cambodian style in ancient Siam. The 14th-century structure is still under restoration (and will be for a few more years). You enter through a hallway with an ornate entrance and then a podium surrounded by tall brick walls. Here, you get a glimpse of the Wat behind the hall. Once you exit the hall and take the side walkways, you see a magnificent temple tower sitting on a high podium surrounded by Chedis.

vacaywork author sahana sitting on brick podium with tall extremely carved brick temple of Wat Ratchaburana

The best part is visitors can climb about halfway up the prang (podium) and onto the praying area. The chambers below the prangs should contain a heap of treasure! We wondered if we could get a tiny piece of treasure with every step we took! Well, we could not get the treasure, but the view from the prayer hall was all worth the climb. A bird’s eye view of The Chedis, ordination hall with modern Ayutthaya town in the background was equally worth the treasure.

b. Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat – The focal point of Ayutthaya Historical Park and what the town is best known for – It is in Wat Mahathat where you see Buddha’s head nestled in a tree’s roots. This is the main reason I wanted to go to Ayutthaya like many other tourists. I was too curious to know how and why Buddha’s head sits in the Banyan tree’s entangled roots.

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What is the reason for Buddha’s head being in the tree roots in Ayutthaya?

Nobody knows why exactly Buddha’s head is entangled by tree roots in Ayutthaya. However, there are some speculations. The archaeology and restoration department says that in the 1760s, the Burmese attacked Wat Mahathat and lit the entire complex. They vandalized as much as possible, leaving this Buddha’s head on the ground. Over time, the tree overgrew, encircling the head. In the 1950s, when the government began excavating, along with pots full of gold and precious items, they found Buddha’s head nestled in the roots. They decided to leave it the same way.

But our boat rower at Ayutthaya narrated a different story. A thief broke the head after the Burmese vandalized the statue to take it with him. He hid it under the soil and never came back to take it.

Whatever the reason, this is unique to Thailand. It is one of the most astonishing things I have ever seen in my life.

What else to see in Wat Mahathat of Ayutthaya?

Though Buddha’s head embedded in the roots is the most famous spot in Mahathat, many more structures exist in the same complex.

ancient ayutthaya temple ruin with brick wall lined with headless buddha statues shaded by trees and other temples at wat mahathat complex

The ordination hall, viharas, and series of Buddha statues sitting in meditation postures- are a massive collection of Cambodian-style structures. The shaded trees here benefit tourists who love to walk and take a break under the tree sitting. The heat was intense, and this place was so blissful that we did not want to move for almost an hour sitting under a tree beside a brick ruin.

Heads Up – The entry ticket was 50 baht to Wat Mahata complex in 2019. Most tourists who come to Ayutthaya visit this site. Expect a crowd, and a line will be waiting to get clicked in front of Buddha’s head embedded in the roots.

part of ayutthaya historical park at wat mahathat showing brick walls and pilalrs

c. Wat Chaiwatthanaram

The riverside temple complex, where ancient royals worshiped privately, is another excellent example of Cambodian architecture. With the main temple in the center, multiple chedis surround it. Unfortunately, unlike Ratchaburana, we couldn’t climb the podium as it was under restoration.

indian mom in red salwar kameez sitting on brick steps in front of two tall extensively carved brick temples hugging her daughter at wat Chaiwatthanaram in ayutthaya
Mom and me at Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Most tourists add Chaiwatthanaram to their day’s plan because of the Chao Phraya river’s locality. You will never forget the first sight of this Wat from far while on the boat. However, if you want to capture the temple’s reflection in the water, remember that The Wat is located on the west side of the Chao Phraya river. The sunsets behind the temple. So going there in the evening is a bad idea if you aim for the reflection. Otherwise, the evening is a great time to spend some quiet time on the riverside.

Least impressive places to visit in Ayutthaya Historical Park

modern buddhist temple Wat Phromniwas Worawihan by the riverside in ayutthaya

Wat Phromniwas Worawihan

If you are not into religious and spiritual experiences, you may skip by looking for ancient structures and history. This is like any other temple in Thailand but holy for Buddhist monks.

two brick chedis and a tall brick temple tower painted in white at Wat Phutthaisawan

Wat Phutthaisawan

A small temple near Wat Chaiwatthanaram is different from other temples with new and old structures.

two brick chedis by the streetside

Wat suwannavas

This temple is not your “instagrammable” spot. While we walked in the early morning, it felt bizarre to find these ancient brick structures popping in the modern town.


9. Things to do in Ayutthaya other than seeing temple ruins

Go for early morning jogging or cycling. 

I know I’ve mentioned this ten times already, but here’s the grand finale: Rise and shine for a morning jog in Ayutthaya. The empty streets and melodious birds perched on those ancient, brick-hiding trees create the perfect day kickstarter. Stroll by iconic Wats like Mahathat, and you’ll spot things you totally missed the day before! This part of Ayutthaya is what I and mom always cherish – It is bliss to feel the small town when hardly anyone is awake.

group of ancient brick temple ruins at ayutthaya historical park seen from roadside early on the morning

Explore the European side of Ayutthaya 

From the first word of this post, I have been talking about Siam, Burmese, and Cambodians. So, I was shocked to see an ancient Catholic church by Chao Phraya while going to Chaiwatthanaram! In its glory days, Ayutthaya drew colonizers from all over the world. So, many foreign quarters belonged to Dutch, Portuguese, and French!

dutch style church with tall tower at the centre by the riverside in ayutthaya

When I saw a sushi place opposite Ratchaburana, I wondered why a cafe would sell only Sushi in this tiny Thai town. When asked the owner why a Sushi place in a historical city, he said that there are many with Japanese ethnicity in Ayutthaya! So Japanese cuisines are pretty famous among locals here. Visiting these foreign quarters and the French church built in the 1660s shows Ayutthaya’s diversity.

Take a boat ride on Ayutthaya’s River

The boat ride in the Chao Phraya shows you another side of the town. The houses built on stilts by the river, locals fishing, abandoned old boats – Very different from those brick temples you have seen. That is why, when you travel to Ayutthaya, make sure to take a boat ride.

You spot many modern temples, an essential part of local Buddhist’s life here. There are dozens of hostels with hammocks hanging by the river bank. Backpackers with a book vibing with the town’s sleepy atmosphere were there throughout the riverfront.

group of ayutthaya temple ruins by the river side with sun setting behind them

There are many folks who think of walking streets when they hear Thai woman. Throughout Thailand, you can see Thai women working hard in shops, construction sites- beyond being labelled to sexwork. In Ayutthaya, you meet women who row the boat and handle tourists. We were lucky to have met one such mother and daughter duo who took us on the boat ride – In her blue-white uniforms, the pretty-faced hard-working daughter came back from school directly to the dock to help their moms and sisters!

Devour Local Ayutthaya food and Thai Versions of Continental food

Ayutthaya’s food is peculiar compared to all the other six cities I have seen in Thailand! I had a croissant with coconut jam here! They sell Sushi (I don’t know how it tastes, I went to the shop just for curiosity, I am vegetarian. Unlike Japan these folks don’t make veg sushi) with sauces other than Wasabi. The kind of fish they use is fresh from the Chao Phraya river. Other than Chiang Mai, I found Ayutthaya more Vegan-friendly than the other Thai cities.

  • Coffee Old City – Awesome breakfast place where I had croissants with coconut jam
  • Burinda Restaurant : Tasty and fresh vegetarian versions of Thai food like Pad Thai (The map shows the place is closed permanently, so check before you go)
  • Jintana near Chao Phrom market – They have a good vegetarian options. Try their Basil Fried rice(Mom recommends it)
  • I didn’t try but the host said Boran Cafe is super famous for Sushi.
thai noodles with lots of vegetables in a wooden bowl kept on a table

Rent Thai Clothes in Ayutthaya

This is something I never thought would be a thing to do in Ayutthaya! By evening, you see many visitors dressed in these fancy rentals wandering amidst the ruins! They look magical! Apparently, it is one of the most common things folks do when they travel to Ayutthaya. So, plan in advance to wear the Thai costume and wander among the ruins to capture some great shots.

a tourist wearing traditional thai dress sarong and jewels at a temple ruin in ayuthhaya
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There are other usual Thai things to do in Ayutthaya – Thai Spa, nightclubs and bars, Ayutthaya floating market and night markets. Do this if only you stay in Ayutthaya for more than two days.

There are other usual Thai things to do in Ayutthaya – Thai Spa, nightclubs and bars, Ayutthaya floating market where you can buy some Thai stuffs and night markets if Ayutthaya is the only Thai town you visit.

Found our Ayutthaya Travel Blog useful? Please let us know in the comment section below. Also, tell me if you know how to handle the migraine headache caused by heat. So that I don’t lose half a day sleeping in the room next time.

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