Varanasi Spiritual Experience: City of Death or Life?

Many travellers say their lives changed after visiting Varanasi. They claim it isn’t just a place to travel but a profound spiritual experience. The movies I watched, like “Masaan” and “Mukti Bhavan,” made me feel that everything in Varanasi ends in spirituality.

I was intrigued by the death scenes in Varanasi. People call it the city of death, focusing on the burning ghats.

But my spouse, Sahana who has been to Varanasi twice before our trip together to Varanasi, described a different Varanasi?- Happy and lively!

Confused and eager, I decided to find out what Varanasi really is.

This is the story of my spiritual journey in Varanasi. My opinions varied drastically from the 1st to the 7th day.

Now, I understand why travellers keep coming back. Varanasi is a city of contrasts, evoking two different emotions simultaneously.

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Chaos & Charm

Brutally honest – the first day in Varanasi was overwhelming. The cycle rickshaws and cows pushed us from corner to corner in the narrow alleys.

A deviation from the main alley could take us to a calmer alley. Still, we couldn’t escape the buzz- I was lost and confused.

By the third day, the same chaotic alleys felt like mysterious pathways leading us to something interesting.

We knew how to give way to scooters and pat cows.

We became masters of avoiding stepping on cow dung.

Our minds heard more bhajans and tabla music from the houses in the alleys than the scooters honking. We observed and admired havelis more.

The colourful doors were the day’s talk, rather than the colour of dog poop.

We learnt how to be one with the vibe and turn chaos into charm.

That is the beauty of Banaras – You give it a time, it teaches you how to live in the chaos turning it to charm.

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Poverty & Positivity

There are both rich and poor in Varanasi. Those who own saree gaddi shops look simple but are millionaires.

Then there are bird food sellers and boat rowers whose income depends on tourists’ arrival. Some hardly make 300 Rs/day, and others may make 1000 Rs/day during peak season.

A morning chat with a bird food seller showed us that that positivity in life isn’t only proportional to wealth.

He said, “Irrespective of what I earn, Kashi is my Anand Nagari – happy place. If there are more tourists, I make more money. If not, i get to spend more time with family.“

Every chai seller, bajji maker, and driver hardly whined about money on one of those foggy days in December.

I met a priest at that ghat and asked how bad their livelihood was during COVID lockdown.

With a broad smile he explained that his life was strugglesome like any other human on earth and he didn’t have anything to whine about it. “Whenever Lord Shiva wants to give, he will give. I have the patience to wait,” he said, before taking a dip in Cold Ganges early in the morning.

Perhaps this was when I first thought Varanasi isn’t a place to die, but to live. You accept the life as it comes and no point in whining – this was his wise words.

Unknowingly, I had begun my journey of life lessons in Varanasi – from a random priest I met on the ghats.

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Heard & Unheard

Banarasi sarees and musicians are famous worldwide. You see ads and shops of Banaras handlooms in every part of the city.

But Varanasi’s carpet makers of Bhadohi who are equally skilled are unheard of by most.

A village 45 km away takes you to one of the most unhygienic towns in India with some of the nicest and kindest humans on earth, home to the nation’s finest carpet makers.

When I bought a Tutankhamun-themed carpet at Saqqara (Egypt), our guide Ibrahim told us, “These carpets are not bad, but the best ones come from Iran, India, and Turkey.”

95% of India’s handmade carpets originate here at Bhadohi, yet their makers’ names remain hidden.

It is so strange that Banarasi sarees and it’s makers are known worldwide. But the Carpet makers remain under a shadow! Heard and unheard artists live in the same town!

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Milk & Vegan

Uttar Pradesh state where Varanasi is located, is India’s highest milk-producing state. Their mill and dairy products quality is excellent and milk based desserts are irresistible.

Lassi, Malaiyo, and Peda are must-try dishes. Plus, their ginger milk tea is, in my opinion, the most refreshing drink globally.

So when a town like Varanasi, where milk products are as important as oxygen, you will be surprised to see pro-vegan slogans on the streets!

After catering to lakhs of foreigners every year, some cafes serve vegan food.

I am not against veganism; it is just that I can’t and don’t want to do it. But I appreciate the thoughts of those who think they can turn “Milk obsessed ” Varanasi people vegan.

Want to know everything about planning a trip to Kashi and need some practical tips? We got you covered.

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Vibrance & Serenity

The Ganga Ghats were my favourite place in Varanasi. There about 80+ ghats in Varanasi, and we must have visited at least 60 during our 1 week trip.

Each of the ghats we visited had its own uniqueness.

Mornings were peaceful with people jogging, doing yoga, priests taking dips in cold water. While by noon, chai sellers, worshippers, barbers, Sadhus, priests made the ghats lively.

The morning fog on the river is dreamy, sunrise time is glowy and noons are brighter and happier.

Dashashwamedh one of the main Ghats in Varanasi, bustles with activity?barbers shaving heads, people chanting, babas with chillum, sadhus walking briskly, and ladies with flowers.

Even with so much happening, the ghat never felt chaotic. Despite the buzz, there’s a calmness here.

Even on the crowded steps, you find your quiet corner.

Dashashwamedh Ghat is where you can truly experience the spiritual essence of Varanasi – because vibrance and serenity co-exists here.

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Holiness & Highness

Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the holiest places I have ever been to. The positive vibrations and divinity are high here.

Since no cellphones are allowed, the crowd concentrates on rituals, divinity, chanting, and meditation.

You won’t find selfie-takers or TikTokers here. Without cellphones to watch cat videos on Facebook or video call their families on loudspeakers, everyone is immersed in devotion – Devotionally high.

But on the ghats, you find another kind of highness?there are common pilgrims, but also priests and sadhus high on marijuana!

The niches and smaller shrines are usually occupied by men smoking marijuana. Though marijuana selling is illegal, it is sold at many places.

Locals have particular shops where they buy it from. They call it “Bholenath ka prasad.” They say “Har Har Mahadev” before taking the first puff!

When I asked a priest why he smokes cannabis, he said, “Bholenath does it in the Himalayas. This is his town. So I do what lord Shiva does.”

Approaches towards spiritual experiences in Varanasi can vary from doing bhajan to smoking marijuana.

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Dirt & Delicacy

Varanasi was infamous for being filthy?people immersed corpses in the holy river Ganga in the name of salvation ritual until 1988.

With time, people realised the worth of hygiene, and the condition is way better now.

You still see men chewing gutkha and spitting, and women throwing wrappers on the streets. So, Varanasi isn’t the cleanest city in India, but definitely not the dirtiest.

But this doesn’t reduce the deliciousness of their street food. It is hard to expect tasty yet hygienic food in a place as crowded as Varanasi, but it does!

There are hundreds of century-old food joints that prepare authentic clean Kashi food.

We have never tasted this much street food anywhere else in India and were swept away by almost every dish.

Dirt and delicacy exist together in the city – Another proof that Varanasi is a city of contrast.

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Pilgrims & Hippies

Not using onion and garlic in street food is part of Varanasi culture. Because most people are on pilgrimage and as per Hindu religion, many pilgrims don’t consume garlic and onion while visiting temples.

Choultries and priest houses rent rooms to devotees. You can spot the guest houses where pilgrims stay by noticing white dhotis and sarees drying on balconies.

Right beside the pilgrim choultries, you find hostels, budget guest houses?a paradise for long-term travellers and hippies. Instead of white dhotis and sarees, you see backpacks, shorts, T-shirts, and skirts drying on these balconies.

Next to a place where pilgrims go for no-onion food, there exists a trendy cafe that serves pancakes and omelettes.

In places like Assi Ghat, Pandey Ghat, Munshi Ghat, and Bangali Tola, you hear traditional bhajans from some houses and music schools. A few steps ahead, you might hear a song by Bob Marley, The Beatles, or Boney M playing from a cafe.

The mix of devotees and hippies is highly entertaining in Varanasi.

One cold evening at Monalisa Cafe, we were sipping coffee while waiting for our spring rolls. Beside us, a group of four stoned hippies sat quietly, except for a couple among them kissing.

Two ladies in sarees, back from Ganga Aarti carrying Prasad in their hands, entered the cafe and sat next to the hippies. They were unhappy and shocked by the kissing couple.

The ladies finished their meals while discussing how their generation was more respectful.

The stoners remained oblivious to everything around them. And ladies in traditional saree never stopped complaining about today’s generation.

This blend of devotees and hippies is a common sight in many parts of Varanasi.

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Devotion & Hypocrisy

Ganga Aarti ,is a magical ritual of lights that evoked deep devotion in me. We attended it thrice, each time feeling blessed and better.

The first time, we were so captivated that we didn’t take out our cameras or phone to take photographs

The second time, we watched both the ceremony and the people.

Finally, third time, we took a few photos of Ganga Aarti ceremony.

i was fascinated with the variety of people who attend the devotional Ganga Aarti ceremony

Some are immersed in devotion, lost in the lamps of light without bothering about the worldly things around them.

And you find many other specimens?those who are on video calls with their family or friends to show them the Aarti instead of actually experiencing it.

Some were relentlessly taking photos for social media. Others stood near the priests for a perfect photo, while others got bored and walked away.

Many were agitatedly waiting to light the lamps used by the priests instead of living in the moment.

A few great souls even went live on Facebook to show the world the ceremony through their poor-quality videos.

Among such crazy crowd, one girl from Nasik saw us and asked if we were taking reels for Instagram.

We nodded no and continued watching / clicking ceremony by ourselves. But she asked us to send her the videos later. We ignored her.

When the most magical part of the ceremony with the seven-tiered aarti lamp came, she pushed Sahana to take photos from a particular angle. Annoyed, Sahana asked her to leave us alone, and the girl left angrily.

While 50% of people at the Ganga Aarti dive into devotion, the rest are there for social media, photos, or just for the sake of it.

We realised not everyone is there for the Varanasi spiritual experience!

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Noise & Silence

Godowlia Chowk, the busiest square in Varanasi, is phenomenal by 4:30 PM.

Locals come for shopping, tourists rush to catch taxis to the train station, and those wanting the best seats for Ganga Aarti head to the main ghat via this chowk.

Chaat shops are bustling, cycle rickshaws are unstoppable, and cows and bulls amble through the chaos in pure bliss.

It’s crazy how a crowded place like this works perfectly every day!

Just a few metres north of this square, there’s a highly ornate gateway with projecting jharokhas. It looks like a bazaar entrance. Walk 20 metres through the gateway and make a left turn to reach the quietest place in Varanasi!

housing the architectural marvel of Kashiraj Kali Temple. The detailed carvings and sandstone material absorb sound, creating a quiet, mystic atmosphere. The silence here is so strong that you involuntarily whisper instead of talk.

The distance between noise and pure silence in Varanasi is actually just 20 metres!

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Joblessness & Cheerfulness

The effort and strength needed for rowing boats in Varanasi all day are immense.

When we talked to the boatmen, many confessed they skip breakfast to stay light and active until 3 PM, when a family member takes over during the Aarti ceremony.

Their hard work is rewarded during peak tourist season on sunny days. If the weather turns foggy and no tourists show up, they have nothing to do.

We initially thought they would sit around whiling away their time gossiping, whining, or bugging those who come to ghats for money when they have no work.

But they don’t do it!

Instead, the boatmen team up and play cricket on the ghats cheerfully. Many may not have made a single ride that day, but their zest for life is incredible.

I don’t think these boatmen are on a spiritual journey?but they are at a spiritual destination! They might not even realise how blessed they are to remain happy even after losing their income for a day or two.

It showed us why Varanasi is one of the happiest places on earth!

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Ancient & Global

The havelis are historic. Temples are religious and mythologically important. Being one of the oldest living towns globally, you experience century-old traditions in Varanasi.

But Varanasi isn’t just about being old.

The modern graffiti on the walls in the winding alleys adds a contemporary twist to the ancient walkways.

Cafe culture in Varanasi is strong as the Spiritual essence.

Hardly any waiters speak English, but they know how to make excellent Korean kimchi.

An ancient haveli converted into a cafe that plays YMCA songs. What you see and what you get aren’t the same at many cafes in Varanasi.

The contrast of how an ancient city like Varanasi merges with global trends is crazy and unexpected.

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Grievance & Joy

Seagulls from Siberia are the happiest guests of Varanasi in winter. They call Varanasi’s ghats and the Ganges river home for four months (November to January) each year.

Feeding these seagulls while on boat rides in Varanasi is one of the most joyful things to do. The birds come in packs for more mewing even after being fed with a kilogram of namkeen. They are so numerous and loud that our laughter is masked by their mewing.

Feeding, laughing, and rejoicing at the ghat are Varanasi moments we always cherish. In our joyful state, we didn’t realise when we reached Manikarnika Ghat – the burning ghat.

The birds had left us by then.

There was a wood pyre burning right in front of us. In the distance, four men were walking downhill with a dead body.

The pyre caretakers adjusted the body as if it were a toy, flipping, pushing, and pulling the logs to ensure proper burning?they handled the bodies more easily than I handle making a dosa.

What a transformation?from happy birds mewing to dead humans.

While we sat in silence watching the burning, two men in underwear came away from the pyre with a steel wok full of ashes.

They dipped the ash in water to search for something. When we asked the boat rowers what they were doing, we learned a hard reality:

They are from a community called “Dom”?the only ones who work at the ghat to burn the bodies.

They collect ash in a tray, dip it in water, and sieve to find gold or silver pieces worn by the dead, or even coins at times. Apart from cremating, this is their way of making a livelihood.

I’m not saying they seemed cheerful while looking for valuables in the ashes, but they showed no feelings.

In fact, there would be a smile on their faces whenever they found a piece of gold or silver from the burnt ashes of a dead body?indeed, it is their bread and butter.

I think this is where I saw grief and joy together! There were mourners on the bank grieving for the departed one, and here was a community making their living from the dead!

We were cheering a few minutes ago for the cute feathered fellas soaking in the painting-like promenade of the ghats. But now, we sat shocked, watching the dead burning.

You can never have a better Varanasi spiritual experience than watching the burning ghats.

Probably at this point of my Varanasi trip, I got the answer to my question “What is a spiritual experience”

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Death and Life

Have you ever experienced the joyous moment of devouring one of the finest desserts while four men carry a dead body on a wooden stretcher right beside you?

If not, it happens in Varanasi?one of the most bizarre experiences in the city. I don’t know if it is a spiritual experience or brutal. I’m not even sure what one should feel at such a moment.

While we were enjoying Malaiyyo at the chowk, we heard bells and people chanting “Raam Naam Satya Hai.” Four men walked by, carrying a dead body on the busiest and happiest streets of Kashi. The crowd seemed undisturbed by the presence of death.

It felt strange to see a dead body passing by while enjoying a Banaras delicacy. Curiously, we followed the men to Manikarnika Ghat.

The lively atmosphere of the alley remained similar to the chowk for a while, with samosa and ghee sellers still present.

After walking 100 metres, the vibe changed to eerie silence. Shops related to death rituals appeared instead of kachori stalls.

A weird silence existed until we reached the ghat. We saw and heard wooden logs being weighed and stacked as we moved closer.

There were tiny temples where people stood with hands folded, tears rolling down their eyes. I expected to hear loud screaming and crying as we were at the place of the dead?but the silence with whispers filled the air.

Priests were chanting, and boats with visitors arrived to pay their last respects to the departed ones.

Still, we saw people weeping in silence, not wailing.

As we were the only two observers, a priest saw us and asked if we needed any help. We asked him why people here don’t cry. He said,

“Why should they cry? They are burning their loved ones in the holiest place. The dead are not dead; they are on the way to salvation. Thank God for a beautiful life and be happy for the ones who are about to meet the universe creator.”

Is Varanasi city of death?

I really thought Varanasi was a city of death?a place where people come to die. But I don’t say that now. Varanasi’s spiritual experience is such that almost every moment here teaches you how to live if you observe and talk to Banarasi people!

Varanasi is a city of love, light, and laughter?you don’t come here to die, but to learn how to live. Unknowingly and unintentionally, I was on a spiritual journey in Varanasi for a week ! Undoubtedly, Varanasi is the place we love most in India.

What are your Varanasi spiritual experiences? Let us know in the comment section below.