Ayutthaya Travel Guide for Two days

collection of brick temple ruins at ayutthaya surrounded by trees

The entire world knows Bangkok as Thailand’s capital. It is more enticing when you travel to the second capital of ancient Siam – Ayutthaya ruins. Often treated as a place for a day trip from Bangkok, Ayutthaya is a town you must experience on foot.

This post is all about what made me travel through this historical city of Ayutthaya for two days instead of a day trip and why you must do so.

Updated on 10th September 2023

buddha's head embedded in tree at Ayutthaya

Index

Is it worth going to Ayutthaya?

Absolutely yes! Travel to Ayutthaya for some amazing ruins in a small town vibe.

tourists walking with umbrella amidst ayutthaya brick temple ruins

This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to hundreds of ancient brick temples. You may be seeing the Wats in Bangkok and Phuket, but jogging in the early morning beside 200+-year-old ruins is surreal.

Bangkok represents Thailand, while Ayutthaya tells stories of Siam. The small-town food is always tastier. Somehow this town has managed not to get infested with mass tourism, even with all the amenities any small town in a developing nation should have. Suppose you want to see something unique to Ayutthaya that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world – you got Buddha’s head embedded in a banyan tree at Wat Mahatat.

How do you travel to Ayutthaya?

ayutthaya railway station
AYUTTHAYA RAILWAY STATION
  • By air –The nearest airport to Ayutthaya is Bangkok – 80km.
  • By Train –Nearest railway station – Ayutthaya’s train station is close to the main town. Plenty of trains leave from Bangkok to here. The most common route tourists take is Ayutthaya- Phitsanulok to get to Sukhothai. Choose the express train with an AC coach to save time and energy.
  • By Road- Public buses –We didn’t spot any public buses, but there are public vans. Use 12goAasia to book these, Or you can check for local travel agencies that run regular public taxi services, such as Khao San Tara travels in Bangkok.
  • By Cruise- Boats and Ferries – Chao Praya river flows between Bangkok & Ayutthaya. But the cruises and ferry to Ayutthaya on this river are scams I read everywhere. Beware of it before you choose ferries.

Where is the best place to stay in Ayutthaya?

Ayutthaya is a small town. So choosing the right neighbourhood isn’t a headache. The only place you may want to avoid is closer to Chao Phrom market and the railway station.

When we took a boat ride to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, we saw plenty of other guesthouses and hostels by the riverside. However, I feel it is better not to choose riverside guesthouses, as the water stinks. The river was ill-maintained, filled with algae, and other unwanted plants had grown everywhere. 

poor houses on stilt by Chao Praya river in Ayutthaya

Choose hotels closer to any of the ruins. In general, Ayutthaya accommodations are cheaper than the rest of the cities in Thailand. For example, you can get decent accommodation with an attached toilet for 800 baht/per night downtown. Guesthouses near Wat Mahatat (Buddha’s head in a tree) and Wat Ratchaburana are always in demand and are the best for the ones in Ayutthaya for 2 days.

Which hotels in Ayutthaya are good for families?

The most famous (Probably the most expensive hotel in Ayutthaya) Sala Ayutthaya near Wat Phutthai Sawan, costs around 6000 baht/night.

Luang Chumni Village is also another good option for mid-range budget.

Budget friendly hotel in Ayutthaya

We stayed at Binlar guest house.  A low budget guesthouse was comfortable and worth the money as it was right in front of Ratchaburana.

VIEW OF RUIN FROM WAT RATCHABURANA WORSHIPPING AREA

How Many Days to Spend in Ayutthaya?

Spend a minimum of two days in Ayutthaya to savour the place at least on the surface.The UNESCO Heritage site is a treasure of mysteries for archaeologists. As laymen, we must wander for two days to realise it’s beauty.

If you are in Ayutthaya for more than three days, you have all the luxury of time to explore. Anything less than that, research a bit on what you want to see. It gets boring to visit similar wats and Chedis. Following the map to some Wat may lead you to a brick mound. You need not know everything, but at least ensure the ruin is in a decent condition or just a pile of bricks and mud.

BRICK CHEDIS IN AYUTTHAYA TEMPLE THAT RESEMBLES CAMBODIA

Can you do a day trip to Ayutthaya from Bangkok?

You can make a day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. But I don’t recommend that.

You end up seeing the Buddha head of Wat Mahatat and Ratchaburana. No doubt, they are stunning. The joy of Ayutthaya lies in wandering. You don’t usually get to take early morning walks around century-old chedis and Wats with birds chirping when the first set of sun rays touches your skin.

After that, it gets too hot to walk around; sitting back and sipping a tender coconut on your guest house verandah under the tree is better.

mother and daughter walking through ayutthaya ruins

Ayutthaya-Sukhothai- Lopburi

The most common question from part-time travellers on the Thailand travel platform is the difference between the three ruins .

What is the difference between Ayutthaya and Sukhothai?

Sukhothai was the first capital of Siam after freeing themselves from the Khmer of Cambodia. After the collapse of Sukhothai, Ayutthaya became the capital.

During the Ayutthaya era, Lopburi was the second most important city with much influence from the Indian subcontinent. So the size of the Historical park goes in descending order like this – Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Lopburi. The weather remains the same in all three towns throughout the year. However, Sukhothai feels a bit cooler because of the village’s woods.

Sukhothai

  1. Sukhothai archaeological ruins hide in the woods and remote villages.
  2. Besides the ruins, Sukhothai massage and Sukhothai food are the best I had in all of Thailand!
  3. The usual next destination from here is Chiang Mai in the North or Ayutthaya towards Central Thailand.

Ayutthaya

  1. Most of Ayutthaya’s ruins are in the town, just 5km from the city. A few temples are located on the river banks also.
  2. The modern city is developed around Ayutthaya, leaving no space around it. This makes the sleepy town of Ayutthaya excellent for morning jogging.
  3. The usual next destination is Bangkok towards the South, Maeklong or Kanchanaburi in the west, and Sukhothai towards the west.

Lopburi

  1. Lopburi’s ruins are similar to that of Ayutthaya, with more influence from Indian architecture. More than the ruins, it is famous for the monkeys! Many travellers refer to it as the” Monkey town of Thailand.”
  2. There are a few hiking trails to get the village view from the top. Villagers are proud of the monkey’s presence throughout the town because they believe it is a sign of good luck.
  3. The usual next destination from here is Sukhothai or Chiang Mai in the North.

Guide to exploring Ayutthaya ruins 

The boundaries of the World Heritage Historical Park cover 90+ sites. 65+ temples are brick temple ruins, and the other temples are either brick mounds or with the slightest traces of brick foundation. Due to urbanisation, many monasteries and temples have vanished. So you never know – the guest house you are staying in may be built on top of a century-old building.

brick columns and walls in ruins at ayutthaya
PC : Unsplash

Can you get a guide at Ayutthaya?

Yes you can. But you don’t need a guide unless you want to know more about each ruin’s religious importance and history. Most often, there is a signboard at each Wat explaining who built it and when. It is super easy to go by yourself in all of Thailand.

In this small town, tuk-tuk drivers, boat rowers and cafe owners understand English decently. So you can wander with locals’ help and no official tour organiser.

brick wall protectting an ancient temple in ayutthaya by streetside

Are you allowed to take pictures of Buddha statues?

Whenever you want to click a photo in front of a Buddha statue, the person who clicks and the one who poses have to sit! Thais find it disrespectful if you take photos in any other way.

Dress appropriately – Covering shoulders and knees. Many ruins are still active, and monks come to worship at the ruins.

stone buddha in meditating pose with yellow fabric wrapped at brick ruin in ayutthaya

Can you explore Ayutthaya Ruins by walking?

THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE THE HISTORICAL PARK IS EITHER BY WALKING OR CYCLING. You can opt for boat rides to visit a few sites, especially in the evening.

10 AM to 4 PM is when the crowd is more. Tourists making a day trip arrive at 10 AM.

ayutthaya modern town surrounded by brick ruins
PC : Unsplash

Start walking early in the morning, return to your room, or relax in a cafe from 12 to 3. The heat is pricky and sure to give you a headache. I have a migraine headache problem. The heat was so bad by 12 that my head was about to explode. We almost lost half a day until I felt better. No tablet could help me until the boat rower gave me some random white pill while going to Wat Chaiwatthanaram.

Walking in the isolated historical sites at any time during the day is safe.

Is there an entry fee for Ayutthaya?

Yes. For some temples, there is entrance ticket.

The ancient complex had 22 gates. Now the historical park is fenced and gets opened near the main buildings. Most sites are free of cost, and some of them charge you less than 50 Baht. You can buy individual tickets or a combo ticket to enter all the temples that need a paid entry ticket.

Don’t go for the combo ticket unless you are sure of visiting all those sites on the same day ( which is very likely impossible because of the sun and heat)

Can i go clubbing in Ayutthaya?

Yes! Though this is a historic city with many holy sites, many bars & clubs play loud music in the evening. Lunch and dinner are not a problem even for vegans and Vegetarians. However, the town wakes up a bit late in the morning! Especially for early morning people like my Mom, it was hard to find a cart selling hot coffee at 7. Most restaurants open by 11 AM! Read our post “Vegetarians guide to authentic Thai food.” to learn more about our favourite cafes in Ayuthtaya.

You can see some temples from outside

List of Ayutthaya Ruins

My idea of an Ayuutaya temple was just one structure. It turned out that it isn’t so. Wat Mahatat itself had so many chedis, temples and hundreds of Buddha statues and elephant structures that you can keep walking for a whole day at just one temple.

What we planned and ended up doing is a lot different. The sun won over us, and we had to head back after I got a splitting migraine headache. We often sat where there was shade. It was to take it slow and easy instead of rushing to visit everything we had planned.

The list of Ayutthaya temples we visited

  1. Wat Phra Mahathat The most famous Budhha embedded in the tree
  2. Wat Ratchaburana – A ruin that reminds you of Angkor wat temple
  3. Wat Chaiwatthanaram – Riverside temple with towering pinpointed chedis surrounding the main temple.
  4. Wat Phromniwas Worawihan – a modern typical Thai temple by the riverside.
  5. Wat Phutthaisawan  The combination of Pagoda and tower temple by the riverside. 
  6. Wat suwannavas Three brick chedis by the roadside

Other temples we had planned to visit

  1. Wat Phra Si Sanphet – Ground of Chedis 
  2. Wat Yai Chaimongkol – Active temple with multiple Buddha statues
  3. Wat Phu Khao Thong – Unique of all, wider at base resembling Wat Arun
  4.  Wat Lokayasutharam – Giant sleeping Buddha
  5. Wat Thammikarat – Monastery with lion statues at the bottom. 

Best three sites in Ayutthaya

Wat Ratchaburana

This Ayutthaya ruin is a fine example of the Cambodian style in ancient Siam. The 14th-century structure is still under restoration (and will be for a few more years). You enter through a hallway with ornated entrance and then a podium surrounded by tall brick walls. Here you get a glimpse of the Wat behind the hall. Once you exit the hall and take the side walkways, you see a magnificent temple tower sitting on a high podium surrounded by Chedis.

long brick stairway eading to big brick temple

The best part is visitors can climb about halfway up the prang(podium) and onto the praying area. The chambers below the prangs should contain a heap of treasure! We wondered if we could get a tiny piece of treasure with every step we took! Well, we could not get the treasure, but the view from the prayer hall was all worth the climb. Bird’s eye view of The Chedis, ordination hall with modern Ayutthaya town in the background was equally worth the treasure.

aerial view of brick chedis

Wat Mahatat

tourist sitting in front of buddha's head embedded in roots

What is the most famous Wat in Ayutthaya?

It is Wat Mahatat where you see Buddha head nestled in a tree’s roots. This is the main reason I wanted to go to Ayutthaya like many other tourists. I was too curious to know how and why is Buddha’s head sits in the Banyan tree’s entangled roots.

The archaeology and restoration department says

In the 1760S, the Burmese attacked Wat Mahatat and lit the entire complex. They vandalised as much as possible, leaving this Buddha’s head on the ground. Over time, the tree overgrew, encircling the head. In the 1950s, when the government began excavating, along with pots full of gold and precious items, they found Buddha’s head nestled in the roots. They decided to leave it the same way.

There is even another story; our boat rower at Ayutthaya narrated a different story. A thief broke the head after the Burmese vandalised the statue to take it with him. He hid it under the soil and never came back to take it.

Whatever is the reason, this is unique to Thailand. It is one of the most astonishing things I have ever seen in my life. 

one bid buddha statue surrounded by many headless buddha statues in brick ruins

What are the elements of Wat Mahathat?

Though Buddha’s head embedded in the roots is the most famous spot in Mahatat, many more structures exist. The ordination hall, viharas, and series of Buddha statues sitting in meditation postures- are a massive collection of Cambodian-style structures. The shaded trees here benefit tourists who love to walk and take a break under the tree sitting. The heat was intense, and this place was so blissful that we did not want to move for almost an hour sitting under a tree beside a brick ruin.

Heads Up – The entry ticket was 50 baht to Wat Mahata complex in 2019. Most tourists who come to Ayutthaya visit this site. Expect a crowd, and a line will be waiting to get clicked in front of Buddha’s head embedded in the roots.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

mother and daughter sitting on the brick steps in front of a beautiful nrick ruin at ayutthaya

The riverside temple complex, where ancient royals worship privately, is another excellent example of Cambodian architecture. With the main temple in the centre, multiple chedis surround it. Unfortunately, unlike Ratchaburana, we couldn’t climb the podium as it was under restoration.

tall brick chedi with carvings in ayutthaya ruin

Most tourists add Chaiwatthanaram to their day’s plan because of the Chao Praya river’s locality. You will never forget the first sight of this Wat from far while on the boat. However, if you want to capture the temple’s reflection in the water, remember that The Wat is located on the west side of the Chao Praya river. The sunsets behind the temple. So going there in the evening is a bad idea if you aim for the reflection. Otherwise, the evening is a great time to spend some quiet time on the riverside.

Not-so Impressive ruins and temples of Ayutthaya

modern buddhist temple by river side in ayutthaya

Wat Phromniwas Worawihan

If you are not into religious and spiritual experiences, you may skip by looking for ancient structures and history. This is like any other temple in Thailand but holy for Buddhist monks.

less impressive ayutthaya temple

Wat Phutthaisawan

A small temple near Wat Chaiwatthanaram is different from other temples with new and old structures.

Wat suwannavas

This temple is not your “instagrammable” spot. While we walked in the early morning, it felt bizarre to find these ancient brick structures popping in the modern town.

Things to do other than seeing Wats in Ayutthaya.

ruins by the road side lined with trees in ayutthaya

Go for early morning jogging or cycling. 

I know I’ve mentioned this ten times already, but here’s the grand finale: Rise and shine for a morning jog or bike ride. Thailand’s empty streets and melodious birds perched on those ancient, brick-hiding trees create the perfect day kickstarter. Stroll by iconic Wats like Mahatat, and you’ll spot things you totally missed the day before!

Chedi ruins in ayutthaya by the road side

Explore the European side of Ayutthaya 

portuguese style chirch in Ayutthaya by riverside

From the first word of this post, I have been gabbing about Siam, Burmese and Cambodians. So, I was shocked to see an ancient Catholic church by Chao Praya while going to Chaiwatthanaram! In its glory days, Ayutthaya drew colonisers from all over the world. So, many foreign quarters belonged Dutch, Portuguese and French!

When I saw a sushi place opposite Ratchaburana, I wondered why will a cafe sell only Sushi in this tiny Thai town. When asked the owner why a Sushi place in a historical city, he said that there are many in the city with Japanese ethnicity in Ayutthaya. ! So Japanese cuisines are pretty famous among locals here. Visiting these foreign quarters and the French church built in the 1660s shows Ayutthaya’s diversity.

Take a boat ride on Ayutthaya’s River

chao praya river bank with RCC buidlings

All the historic ruins are reachable by road. The boat ride in Chao Praya shows you another side of the town. The houses built on stilts by the river, locals fishing, abandoned old boats – Vey different from those brick temples you have seen. That is why, when you travel to Ayutthaya, make sure to take a boat ride.

modern thai temple by chao praya river side in ayuttthaya

You spot many modern temples, an essential part of local life here. There are dozens of hostels with hammocks hanging. Backpackers with a book vibing with the town’s sleepy vibe were there throughout the river banks. It isn’t common in Middle East countries to see women rowing boats. Women and their daughters handled most boats here. In their blue-white uniforms, the pretty-faced hard-working girls come back from school directly to the dock to help their moms and sisters!

Eat the Thai version of continental food. 

Ayutthaya’s food is peculiar compared to all the other six cities I have seen in Thailand! I had a croissant with coconut jam here! They sell Sushi ( I don’t know how it tastes, I went to the shop just for curiosity) with sauces other than Wasabi. The kind of fish they use is fresh from the Chao Praya river. Other than Chiang Mai, I found Ayutthaya more Vegan-friendly than the other Thai cities. 

thai food noodles in a wooden bowl at ayutthaya

There are other usual Thai things to do here – Thai Spa, nightclubs and bars, Ayutthaya floating market and night markets if Ayutthaya is the only Thai town you visit. 

Rent Thai Clothes in Ayutthaya

girl in traditional thai costume at ayutthaya ruins
PC : Unsplash

This is something I never though would be a thing to do in Ayutthaya! BY evening, you see many visitors dressed in this fancy rentals wandering amidst the ruins! They look magical! Apparently, it is one of the most common thing folks do when they travel to Ayutthaya. So, plan in advance tow ear the Thai costume and wander among the ruins to capture some great shots.

Found our Ayutthaya Travel Blog useful? Please let us know in the comment section below

Also tell me, if you know how to handle the migraine headache by heat. So that I don’t lose half a day sleeping in the room next time 

VIEW OF BRICK CHEDI VIA DOORWAY AT AYUTTHAYA

Published by Sahana Kulur

Traveller | Blogger | Architecture and history

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