Chettinad Travel Blog

If you are planning a trip to India and want to know which places to visit, how to get around India on a budget, read our post “India Travel Guide from an Insider.” It is loaded with practical travel tips and essential info that any first-timer visiting India must know while planning.

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Where is Chettinad located in India?

Chettinad, in southern Indian state Tamil Nadu, is 90 km east of Madurai, a renowned temple town. Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu, is approximately 500 km away. Chettinad covers about 80 square kilometers, spreading its charm across villages like Pudukottai, Karaikudi, and Sivaganga. A whopping seventy-six villages are part of Chettinad.

Chettinad History

Chettinad is a group of villages where people of a community called “Chettiars” lived. Their were businessmen selling gemstones, salt, and engaging in money-laundering activities. They had trade connections with ancient Burma, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, and even a few European countries. A significantly large number of Chettiars still reside in Singapore and Malaysia today. And guess what – Chettiars are called as Singapore’s first Financiers!

Their hometown was Kaveripoompattinam, where the Kaveri River meets the Bay of Bengal. This place served as a major port in ancient times. Unfortunately, the city sank into the sea in early 9th century. Following this tragic incident, Chettiars developed a fear of water and actively sought to stay away from water sources. They migrated to the area of “Karaikudi,” which is 200 km away from the ocean.

As business tycoons across the globe, Chettiars accumulated a lot of wealth ( A lot means, massive). They were fond of showing their richness. And that is why the traditional Chettinad Architecture speaks of Grandeur.

Chettinad Mansion Features

Typically Chettinad mansions in the region will showcase expensive items and antiques from all over the world in their extra-large homes with multiple courtyards and ornate ceilings of woodworks. So the real essence of Chettinad houses are vast courtyards, halls and 50+ rooms are ideal for their private ceremonies.The community’s marriage is famous as one of the most extravagant weddings in India.

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Why Visit Chettinad

Visit Chettinad for a taste of vintage luxury and rural charm, mainly around Karaikudi. These mansions give you a blend of opulence and countryside allure with vibrant streets, local delicacies, and pondside temples.

Strolling through village streets transports you to a bygone era. I could actually image and hera the clatter of bullock carts carrying affluent Chettiars.

The village streets are so kempt that you can picturise the servants discussing loans borrowed from their owners, scenes of little girls running with anklets, ladies in ankle-length Chettinad sarees, and playful boys unfold around you.

Morning cycling or walks near abandoned luxury mansions evoke bliss, with bullock carts still traversing fields. And yes, did you grasp that the luxury is now abandoned?

What happened to Chettinad?

When World War 2 erupted, Chettiar’s global trade faced challenges, disrupting money flow. Seeking opportunities outside Chettinad, they gradually moved to larger cities like Chennai post-India’s independence in 1947.

Many later settled in Singapore, Malaysia, and the USA permanently. Consequently, numerous Chettiar houses in Chettinad remain vacant, opened occasionally, as an estimate suggests around 11,000 mansions now, half of its glorious days. Identifying caretaker-occupied abandoned houses is easy, while others deteriorate.

As of 2024, Chettinad villages and mansions have appeared in a few Indian movies, yet mass tourism hasn’t fully embraced it.

The region remains unspoiled by large crowds. I trust Tamilians – they take pride in their strong history, heritage, and culture. So, they are unlikely to let over-tourism happen and spoil the atmosphere of the mansion villages here.

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If you’re planning a 3-week trip to India (which I highly recommend), be sure to include Chettinad in your 21-day travel South India itinerary, as we’ve recommended in one of our options for exploring India over three weeks.

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How to reach Chettinad

You can reach Chettinad by train or bus. To book your tickets, you must know that Chettinad comprises many villages, with Kanadukathan, Attangudi, and Kadiapatti being the famous ones. So, regardless of your mode of transportation, Karaikudi serves as the arrival point for Chettinad.

Book your train and bus tickets to Karaikudi on 12Go Asia easily.

By Air: The nearest airport to Karaikudi is Madurai (100+ km). If you arrive in Madurai before coming to Chettinad, spend at least 2-3 days there.

By Train: Karaikudi railway station is well connected with trains from Chennai, Tanjore, Madurai, and many other south Indian cities. If you are coming from Kochi to Karaikudi, it is better to take train

Prior to booking your train tickets, read our detailed guide on Train Travel in India to determine the suitable class and ticket type for you.

By Bus: An overnight bus journey is ideal if you are coming to Chettinad from towns within 300 km. It is best to take buses to Karaikudi from Bangalore or Mysore. Make sure to choose a sleeper AC coach for better comfort.

From Karaikudi, it is best to hire a taxi to reach your hotel – Your hosts usually organise this. If you are here for just a day trip (which I don’t recommend), you can rent an auto rickshaw outside Train/bus station for the whole period.

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How many days to spend in Chettinad

Spend a minimum of two days in Chettinad as we did. If you are in snooze mode and want to concentrate on yourself with a book or writing, consider two more extra days, provided you stay in heritage mansions.

Which is the best time to visit Chettinad

The ideal time to visit Chettinad is from October to February when the sun shows a little mercy. Summers are super harsh, but it didn’t stop us from exploring in April.

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Places to Stay in Chettinad

If you’re on a tight budget, stay at regular hotels in Karaikudi. Karaikudi your typical Indian small town vibe. But, if you’re up for soaking in Chettinad old-world charm and hospitality, go for heritage hotels in Kanadukathan or Kadiapatti. The Chettinad heritage hotel prices kick off at 6k INR and can dance up to 15k INR per night per room.

Best accommodations in Chettinad villages

Chidambara Vilas – A Luxury Heritage Resort is a must for an unforgettable Chettinad experience. Our stay there was the highlight of our trip, offering delectable food, exquisite decor in a 120-year-old mansion, warm hosts, and a spot-on ambiance that makes you feel like a wealthy Chettiar!

The next choice would be Visalam – CGH Earth, but it isn’t as heritage as Chidambara Vilas.

The Chettinad Heritage is probably the most affordable heritage hotel in the region.

Heads up: Whether it’s a heritage hotel or a regular one, use Agoda for hotel bookings in India. As much as I use Booking.com outside of India, Agoda works better in India.

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How do I explore Chettinad?

During your Chettinad trip, things you do and activities you plan slightly depends on where you stay. Heritage hotels offer more experiences but can be pricey.

So We’ve categorised the list of Chettinad experiences into two parts A & B. The first list “A” is for to anyone travelling to Chettinad regardless of your accommodation (ensure a two-day stay). And the second list “B” shows experiences you can have if you stay in heritage hotels.

It is best have a private vehicle to explore these places – The villages don’t have public transport. Usually every heritage hotel in Chettinad offers taxi services on daily basis. Or book an Auto Rickshaw for the day.

11 Things to do in Chettinad for everyone

1. Go Mansion Hopping in Chettinad

One main reason to visit Chettinad is Mansion hopping. If every mansion in Karaikudi district opens its doors to visitors like you and me , you’d need quite a few days.

To truly make it exciting, talk to the house owners while paying entrance fees. It usually 10-50Rs. Most owners are friendly and take pride in their heritage. You will uncover the stories/history behind these centuries-old mansions.

Some are super honest to tell you how greedy their ancestors were in money laundering business – There are stories why Burmese ( Today’s Myanmar) refer Chettiars to “Rapacious usurers“

Famous Chettinad mansions that let visitors inside are

• CVRM House – Their long front hall with a Jhoola is unlike anything else. The family lives in the backside of the mansion. Their lifestyle seemed like any other Indian family without all the grandeur and luxury of ancient Chettiars.
• VVR House -The carved wooden doors and wooden purlins in the courtyard are the best of Chettinad.

2. Witness Chettinad handloom weavers in action at their house.

If you’ve ever spotted a checkered cotton saree featuring traditional peacock and mango patterns or a mix of two colors on solid borders, chances are it’s a Chettinad Cotton Saree.

Watching them loom and the way yellow gets warp blends with blue weft is kind of hypnotising. Chettinad saree makers, much like Sungudi cotton saree artisans, are believed to have roots in Saurashtra

The traditional cotton threads in Chettinad sarees were originally bottle green, maroon, yellow, white, and grey.

Now, you can find diverse combinations in stripes and checks, creating a unique color gradient with solid borders. Prices range around 3000 Rs for a soft-quality Chettinad saree, and dupattas cost 600 Rs. These sarees intentionally have a shorter length to reveal the wearer’s anklet.

Where to see Chettinad Saree weaving?

In Kanadukathan, you can find houses of Chettinad Saree weavers.

We visited Mahalakshmi Handlooms. Their heritage blends Marathi, Kannada, and Tamil. In their cozy house, sarees are stored in one room, while another serves as the customer area. The walls showcase photos of foreign visitors, emphasizing the exclusivity for them.It is best to visit them on weekdays and Saturdays. Most weavers close their workshops on Sundays.

3 Visit royal Lakshmi Vilas Palace in Athangudi.

When we entered Athangudi village, my eyes were searching for Tile makers. But our driver stopped at a palace that didn’t look palatial enough from the outside. After paying 50Rs /head as an entry fee, a step inside the place without footwear, I was stunned and confused about where to fix my eyes! The walls had patterned colourful small glazed clay tiles cladded like a painting on the wall. The Checkered Black and white flooring reminded me of our ancestral home.

The wooden carved columns with intricately designed capitals attracted me the most. The enthusiastic caretaker explained this architectural style to Chettinad with its elaborate courtyard. From ceiling to flooring, walls to columns was a traditional myriad of colours, geometrical and floral patterns. 

There are many rooms which are beyond beautiful. But one hall in Lakshmi Vilas palace stole my heart completely – A large hall that had stained glass – The reflections of yellow, blue and red glass made the wide hall even more mystic – As if there is a royal dance program arranged for us by some unknown entity.

4. Visit artisans making the most beautiful tiles of Atangundi.

Athangudi Tiles, a GI Tagged pride of Chettinad, are more than just a building material?they’re handcrafted magic! Architects and non-architects alike can appreciate the eco-friendly touch of these tiles. Watching local artists make these wonders with their hands is a top-notch Chettinad experience.

Birth of Athangudi tiles

The lavish Chettiars adorned their mansions with imported luxuries: teak from Burma, Italian marble, Indonesian furniture, and tiles from Belgium/Spain. As the British era shifted priorities, the need for opulent flooring led to a creative solution by Athangudi locals: handmade tiles using cement, local soil, crushed baby jelly stones, and synthetic oxides. You need not plan a full home makeover with these tiles when your visit.

But you can snagg 4 or 6 Athangudi tiles to jazz up your tabletop. Pick from the standard Grey, Mustard, Maroon, Bottle Green, or Dark Blue hues – They are Athangudi tiles signature colours. Check my detailed video on Instagram or read my article published on Indian National News paper here to know more in detail.

Where to find Athangudi Tile Workshops in Chettinad?

In Athangudi, the village lives up to its name with a significant focus on tile making. While exploring Lakshmi Vilas Palace, take a detour to a local workshop?our host recommended Sri Ganapathi Tiles, and they were not only good but also patient enough to delve into the details. They even let us try our hand at making Athangudi tiles!

Heads up : It is best to visit Athangudi tile workshop on weekdays. If you have planned a trip to Chettinad on weekends, make sure to visit tile workshop on Saturday – Most workshops close on Sundays.

6. Stand and wonder why you can’t enter the magnificent Maharaja palace of Chettinad.

Chettinad Maharaja Palace is a standout landmark in the region with its wide white facade adorned with bottle green, maroon, and mustard accents.

Quite like other Chettiars, the Maharaja family who owns this palace lives in Chennai in another palace. The family uses only during festivals every year or special times. Although it is a well maintained and occasionally occupied, common folks aren’t allowed – It isn’t an open exhibit or paid museum.

I am sure your taxi or rickshaw driver will be fond of telling the family story of Mr Ramaswamy Chettiar– the owner of the Chettinad group and this palace.

The family dispute & no entry to Chettinad Maharaja Palace

If you’re itching to explore the epitome of Chettinad luxury, good luck finding your way in. It’s not impossible, but you’ll need insider connections from Mr. Ramaswamy’s family. Your best bet is to cozy up to your hotel in Chettinad; they might have links with the Maharaja. Brace yourself for lots of calls, emails, and Facebook messages to dig up those useful contacts. If you strike gold, share the love, as I’m still on the hunt for the right connection.

6. Visit The Terracotta Horse Temple in Chettinad.

The atmosphere in each Indian temple may vary yet having some features in common, So going on a temple tour in South India may get monotonous for many. But Ayyanar temples across Tamil Nadu, specifically in Chettinad make it different and interesting because of Terracotta horses.

Ayyanar Horse Temple in Kanadukathan

Ayyanar is the main god who safeguards the town ride a white horse or elephant. The Ayyanar temple in Chettinad is small, but the locality is enthralling. Surrounded by woods and paddy fields, this temple by the road has a unique boundary- Lined with terracotta doll horses. (at least 3-4′ in height). In March, villagers and devotees offer it to the god during a particular festival when they pray for boons or after their asked wish is fulfilled.

7. Take a morning walk in Kadiyapatti village.

Everything in Chettinad is about experiencing luxury. But how is it today? To know that, you must take a walk in Kadiyapatti village, where the current day’s village thrives.

The open cowsheds, old school building, women carrying water from 100m away from the water source, men smoking beedi in a local petty shop catching up with neighbours, kids rolling tyres and others going to school – An 8 am walk shows you the Kutcha houses next to an old laterite stone abandoned mansion waiting for their owners to bring it to life again.

8. Go for an evening walk at Kanadukathan.

We both love wandering in nice streets. Unfortunately, only a few streets in India are suitable for pedestrians with clean and paved paths. For aimless wandering. Kanadukathan streets are one of the cleanest streets in India and are lined with Chettinad mansions-abandoned and occupied both. Despite abandoned, they add colour to the streets.

As you take your evening walk, ladies ride bicycles on their way back home from handloom centres. Men carry a load of green grass in cycles to feed the cattle. The least traffic, more life and ancient mansions by the sides are a dream road for joggers, walkers and cyclists.

9. Go to Chettiar Temple- a temple with a pond.

After moving away from the seashore to an almost dry area without water, Chettiar’s water source remained the Kalyani of temples. Every Chettiar mansion’s open courtyard will have an underground pipe that sucks fallen rainwater and connects it to the pond! So visiting this temple a few kilometres away from mansions may make you want to dig to see the underground pipes like an archaeologist.

10. Wander in Karaikudi antique market.

When Chettiars migrated to Chennai and foreign countries, many sold their houses to locals. Some sold only valuable antiques to the Karaikkudi locals. Of course, some items are stolen from the locked and abandoned mansions. Our taxi driver showed us a group of mansions by an isolated road en route to Athangudi that had 30 CCTV cameras around ten abandoned mansions. So Karaikudi houses one of India’s largest and most beautiful antique markets.

A 500m length lane with multiple side lanes sells brass and wooden antiques. If you are good at bargaining, buy a thing after asking for half price. Otherwise, most shopkeepers are happy for window shoppers. Don’t forget to check out the ultra-detailed, multi-shelved iron safety lockers and carved wooden doors.

11. Devour on Chettinad delicacy.

Fiery-Tasty-Coconutty-Spicy: These four words explain the Chettinad cuisine well. As a gem, salt and spice trader, Chettiar’s natural tendency is to make spicy food with lots of dried red chillies. Most foods are rice-based and traditionally served on Banana leaves.

Along with the typical Indian spices like star anise, red chillies, Methi, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, peppercorn, cumin seeds, Dalchini and nutmeg and Ajwain, their secret ingredient is “Masala Powder” that is made by grinding all the above ingredients using stone piston and mortar in precise amount along with “Black stone flower.”

What makes Chettinad food tasty?

The unique ingredients make Chettinad food uniquely delicious.

The gravy is coconut-based, and the add-ons range from dried vegetables to quail birds (which is my husband’s favourite). Idiyappam, Idli, and Paddu with coconut chutney for breakfast are heavenly. In Ashrith’s opinion, their prawn, chicken, and quail bird curries are among the best non-veg dishes in India, next to Hyderabadi Biryani. For me, the Chettiar-style coconut chutneys and Idiyappam are BAE.

Best Places to eat in and around Karaikudi

• Sri Priya Mess for Chettinad non veg food – Ashrith loved Mutton roast here
• Jainika for veg meals – We had one Thali meal here and was fantastic.

The best place to taste Chettinad is Chidambara Vilas, but their restaurant is open only to staying guests.

Things to do in Chettinad if you stay in Heritage Hotels

1. Experience Chettinad hospitality at Chidambara Vilas.

A 1900s mansion was once home to powerful people from the area. Now a beautifully well-restored resort in a tiny village Kadiapatti. The three years of restoration by a hotel group have done total justice to keep the authenticity of the place. The hospitality culture here is truthful to Tamil Nadu. They put a shalya around your neck as a greeting when the guests arrive and serve you with local sharbat.

All male employees wear white Veshti and shirts, and women drape beautiful Chettinad cotton sarees. So the Chettinad feel seeps into you beyond architecture. The hotel takes interested guests on a village walk or property walk and even lets you inside their kitchen. So you stay here, enjoy the royalty, learn history and gain weight over delicious Chettinad food. Plus, the resort manager Senthil takes you on a curated tour around the mansion – Tale of Chettiars and this mansion.

The Corinthian capitals on entrance pilasters, carved teakwood Burma column, and that bloody big ultra carved door with eight locks and a massive key – I wonder how much time a person took to lock the door in the night. Of course, with so much wealth, Chettiars needed heavy security in the “No CCTV ” & “Non-digital locking system” era.

Only a part of the mansion is leased to the hotel group, and the owner lives by the side we visitors cant enter. So you see many rooms locked on the ground floor.

PS : This isn’t a paid post. It is an architect’s fondness for local architecture and history.

Parts of Chettinad Mansions and their uses in today’s context

Valavu – Courtyard with Tulsi plant is a place where they teach interested guests about Kollam and garland making. In the olden days, it was the marriage ceremony hall.

Pattagasalai – In the first hall after the foyer, Chettiars received other business people to discuss. Now you can peacefully lay back with your legs stretched on the marble top furniture.

Bommakottigai – The most beautiful double-height space in the entire house is this – The painted carved wooden rafters on the ceiling and the status on the corners of the wall can bring you neck pain- Because you can’t stop looking up at the beautiful ceiling. Now, a place for Dasara dolls was for ladies to catch up during ceremonies.

Visiri hall – You can’t be not talking about Chattriars wedding gifts when you talk about Chettinad homes. This is now converted to experiential dining, the hall for women in the olden days where the dowry gifts were displayed – A hall full of gifts! Think of the grandeur!

Darbar Hall: Darbar means kings/officials meeting other important people privately. The carved wooden ceiling is the highlight and is made colourful now once a Darbar hall, now a conference room for corporate meetings.

The hall next to Darbar hall is another charm with its stained-glass rooms. All the glass panes have stained glass, but you see the reflection of one half-circle panel on the wall/floor late in the noon – That is because only that half-circle glass panel is ancient- The true stained glass and the rest are modern (after renovation) – How the might quality have fallen!

The most magical part of Chidambara Vilas is the Terrace

The place you either take a long breath and sit quietly watching the magical surrounding or scream like me jumping around! Coloured Minaret kind of things pops up at two corners, breaking the monotony of the sloped roof. Then you see the entire Village of Kadiapatti filled with clay-tiled sloping roofs – A view you haven’t seen anywhere else. 

2. Take garland making and Kollam class.

Since birth, as an Indian living here, garland making and Kollam( Rangoli) aren’t new for us. We both know the Rangoli art decently(chalk powder drawing on the floor). But doing it on a floor that is more than 100 years old Makes in a courtyard surrounded by antique teakwood columns with little sunshine above makes you feel royal. It was a good time to test my childhood skill.

For those who are new to these skills, it really is refreshing to learn a truly Indian skill.

3. Watch the sunset on the most beautiful terrace with the best views.

Many houses in Chettinad are abandoned, but entry to them is restricted.

If you know to tweak your way without getting caught, choose the tallest mansion in the evening to see the sunset in any of the villages. Or seek permission from the residents and rejoice in the sun setting behind a cluster of clay-tiled roofs of Mansions in the countryside.

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