Madurai wasn’t initially on my travel radar. I studied its temple complex during my architecture studies but lost track of it. Then, I caught a documentary on Jigar Thanda, a Madurai drink, rekindling my interest.
Connecting the dots between Geoffrey Bawa, Sungudi Saree, a temple town, and Jigar Thanda, we ended up in the “Athens of East” on an overnight bus journey. – I am glad I did!
Here is your complete guide to Travelling in Madurai -as sweet as nectar-Hometown of goddess Meenakshi.
Index
- Why visit Madurai
- Reaching Madurai
- Getting around
- Where to stay
- How many days and best time to visit
- Best things to do
- Afterthoughts on Madurai
Why Madurai should be on your travel wish list?
You’ve got to visit Madurai to see one of the oldest living cities in the world. There are temples—temples with gopurams you can touch—vibrant streets, artists crafting dolls and cotton saris, a fantastic palace, delicious food, and a 3rd-century BC city buried under coconut plantations
Like Mumbai,, south Indian city hardly sleeps. The mornings are laid back. By night the city comes to a life fully. Walking around the temple shows you the strong & logical town planning principle adapted during Vedic times. In contrast, the modern town makes you wonder what happened to the town planning strategies.
To see how an ancient city like Madurai, once linked to Greeks & Romans, thrives today, take a stroll. Amidst modern ACP-clad showrooms, there’s a shrine tucked within an old temple. Instead of traditional Tamilians in sarees, you might spot women in Ghagra-Choli and Odhni, a surprise akin to finding them in Gujarat!The facades of Madurai Old Street teleport you back in time.
Madurai’s got yummy food for everyone, meat-eaters and veggies alike. There’s a dessert you can drink and munch on—it’s a lifesaver in the city’s heat. Begin with tasty, airy idlis and cool drinks to beat the heat while exploring the ancient town. Wrap up the day with a delicious dinner at spots known as “Mess.”
Travel to Madurai for it’s rich history
Pandyans in 400BC, Cholas in 1100AD, British in 1800 – The city took its shape in terms of culture and economics in each era. The Madurai’s heart remains “Meenakshi Amman Temple.”, It is famous for its slightly curved pyramidical Gopurams. The tallest one is southern Gopuram (52m).
So who is Meenakshi Amma?
Meenakshi is the goddess who protects the city that never sleeps named Madurai which means”Sweet Nectar.”
Story of Meenakshi Sundareshwar
A Pandyan king and queen didn’t have an heir. So the queen worshipped goddess Parvathi and requested her to be born as her child. The pleased goddess came out of the flames of a Yagjna as a 3-year-old girl having three breasts. Her eyes were beautiful, shaped like a fish. So she was named Meenakshi. The girl became a queen and ruled the kingdom after her father. She defeats many as a great warrior and reaches mount Kailash. There she meets her equal in the battle, Lord Shiva- Sundareshwar ( the beautiful god).
Meenakshi’s third breast falls – a sign that she had met her destined husband. Hence, the war doesn’t end with bloodshed but with a love marriage in her hometown Madurai later. Her brother Alagar (lord Vishnu) arrives on a gold horse a day after the marriage ceremony. Madurai people welcomed him, and he gifted his sister at the Mantapa- This marriage ceremony is celebrated as the Chitirai festival every April since then.
How to get to Madurai
The most common ways people use to reach Madurai are by train and air.
Madurai Airport
Madurai’s international airport is a hub for both foreign and domestic travelers with direct flights from Dubai, Singapore, and Colombo. If you don’t have a direct flight, chances are your layover or connecting flight will be at Chennai. I suggest spending two-three days exploring Chennai before taking a train to Madurai. Check your flight connections to Madurai on SKyscanner
Travel to Madurai By Train
Madurai is one of the main railway junctions of TN state. Daily trains run between Chennai / Tanjore and Madurai & also Delhi. Bangalore to Madurai train is also famous among budget travellers.
The next best option is reaching Madurai by bus. There is ample bus connectivity to Madurai from nearby cities, including cities outside of Tamil Nadu. An overnight journey from Bangalore, Kochi, Mahabalipuram, Kanyakumari is the cheapest and quickest way to get to Madurai. Heads up : There are multiple stops to get down in Madurai. As the main bus stand- Mattuthavani is located away from the city centre, you must know where to get down exactly.
Book your train and bus tickets to Madurai on 12 Go Asia here.
Are you planning an extended trip to India? Explore our “India Travel Guide” for insider tips. It provides detailed information on navigating India, exploring both popular and offbeat destinations, packing tips, obtaining visas, currency exchange, a food overview, and essential advice to avoid scams. Everything a first-time visitor to India needs for a well-planned trip. Check it out now!
What’s the best way to get around Madurai?
Autorickshaws rule the transportation scene in Madurai, much like in many Indian cities. Ola and Uber offer taxis and auto-rickshaws too. Other than Ola, non-app autos typically charged a flat 100Rs regardless of the short distance!
There aren’t many choices for renting bikes in Madurai, and with the hectic traffic, it’s not ideal anyway. Choosing a car with a driver works well, especially for trips outside Madurai, and they’re reasonably priced. So, booking a private AC cab is a smart move, not just in summer, but always—you won’t regret it.
Places to Stay
Madurai is popular among both pilgrims and regular travelers. So from luxurious resorts to budget-friendly lodges, there’s a wide range of accommodation available in this temple city.
Budget hotels to stay in Madurai
Criston Home stay: Popular among backpackers, offers dorms and individual rooms.
Hotel Temple city : We stayed here for a night near Mattuthavani bus stand after spending a day at a luxury hotel. It is very basic but got clean rooms, plus it’s convenient for catching your next bus.
You can also check Mani’s residency and Sri ArulMuthu Residency to stay closer to the temple.
Luxury hotels in Madurai
The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai : On Pasumalai hill, this 120-year-old British-era structure, now a Taj hotel. It has stunning panoramic views of the temple town and Kodai hills.
The Heritage Madurai : Designed by the architect whom I admire most, Geoffrey Bawa, was previously a club and has since been transformed into a hotel in 1957. We stayed a night and highly recommend booking the “Luxury Plunge Pool Villa”—it’s magical and perfect for unwinding after a hot day in Madurai
It’s popular among Tamilian families for hosting family gatherings and weekend trips. While it is not as extraordinary as Geoffrey Bawa’s Heritance Kandalama in Sri Lanka, it’s still pretty good. .
There is also Courtyard by Marriott , which is a business hotel if you are specific on branded hotels.
How many days to spend in Madurai
Spending two to three days exploring Madurai’s highlights is good. Definitely, a quick day trip or stop-over in Madurai won’t do justice to all it has to offer.From Madurai, consider heading to Tanjore, Karaikudi, or continuing towards the beach town of Mahabalipuram.
Best time to visit
Madurai usually has hot and dry weather. So October to March is the best time to visit Madurai. We went in June—it was cloudy, scorching hot, and barely rained. If you can handle the heat, consider catching the Chitrai Festival in April.
Best things to do in Madurai
Here is a list of things to do in Madurai in two days. If you have an extra day add the following:
- Gandhi Memorial Museum – It is one of the five Gandhi Sanghralayas in the country.
- St. Mary’s Cathedral – Church built in 1850s
- Samanar hills for Jain caves
1. Visit Meenakshi Amman temple.
Visiting Meenakshi Amman temple take top priority in the list of “Things to do in Madurai”. There are halls after halls with Vyala (lion-faced mythical creatures) carved on a bracket supporting a cornice facing the passages are eye-catchy. The main pond with golden lotus floating is where one can rest their foot after standing in a long line for goddess darshan for an hour. The thousand pillared halls are proof of ancient Indian sculptors’ perfection.
The beauty amplifies and peace resonates here because cellphones aren’t allowed inside the temple! You neither hear a tacky ringtone nor a creepy item song with no cell phones allowed inside the temple. No tiktokers, no Instagrammers – Pure devotion. But the temple is always so crowded that it is difficult to stay inside for hours together to relish every corner.
2. Climb the local shop terrace for Gopuram views
There are 14 gopurams in the Meenakshi temple, and getting a view of all 14 is impossible without a drone. But if your Madurai friend helps you get on to the terrace of shops nearby, you can see at least three at one shot – And it is mindblowing to really observe that slight curve on the Gopurams.
3. Wander and shop in Pudhu Mandapam.
I have been to bazars and flea markets in many countries. But Pudhu Mandapam is the first place where I wandered and shopped inside a 1630 AD temple-style building. One of the Nayaks built it as a halting place for royal women visiting the temple. The hall’s centre was a dance platform (which was inaccessible in 2020 due to maintenance). Carved rectangular columns with rhythmic projections support the flat roof.
The shops line these columns, creating a unique shopping experience.
Hundreds of traders have been sitting here for ages, and this place is the only place of business for many. One of the famous and super cool things to do at Pudu Mandapam in Madurai is getting your dress stitched by tailors within an hour! You can choose fabric in their shops and get it custom stitched.
Then don’t forget to look at traditional Thumbai – A ceiling-hung cylindrical fabric decorative item is authentic to Madurai. I wish the spread of shops happened in a controlled way to enjoy the architectural space and details more than flashy-tacky jewellery shops.
4. Check out Banana market.
Living in a tropical climate, bananas and coconuts are a daily thing. But stumbling upon a local market packed with just bananas is quite a thrill. A seller mentioned they’ve got around 30 varieties here, from big red ones to small yellow ones.
Mornings are when farmers pack their cycle carts and lorries. Unripe bananas hang out in a partly underground shop. While strolling, don’t miss the farmers’ rooms—they’ve got underground cabins for negotiations. If you chat in Tamil, the friendly folks gladly share banana insights. Seeing a local market with thatched roofs and cabins full of bananas is pure magic.
5. Unwind yourself on the Koodal Azhagar Temple terrace.
While Meenakshi Temple is stunning, for us, Koodal Azhagar (pronounced as Koodal Azhagar with Z as L) embodies serenity and architectural beauty. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it’s smaller than Meenakshi Temple, yet its columns and statues match the beauty. It has that typical South Indian temple vibe, but what sets it apart is the terrace allowing access to the Gopuram. Not many temples in India let laymen reach the Gopuram – but this does.
After handing over that 10Rs for the entry, you step into a serene haven.
The noise of Madurai’s traffic fades, replaced by gentle winds and birdsong. You’re up close to intricate statues and can visit a shrine of sleeping Vishnu in the Gopuram. This temple holds immense religious importance but draws a smaller crowd. It’s either regular devotees here strictly for religious reasons or a handful aware of the terrace. If finding solace in a bustling city like Madurai is your vibe, it is one of the best things to do sit and relax in Koodal Azhagar Temple terrace.
6. Get refreshed with Jigar Thanda.
It’s crazy how one drink can pull travelers like us to an ancient city. Buttermilk goli soda is your usual South Indian cool drink. Then there’s the unique Jigar Thanda, born in Madurai by Saurashtrians to beat the summer heat. Jigar means heart (or liver?), Thanda means cool—so it chills your heart and pleases your mind, while your taste buds keep wanting more.
What is Madurai Jigarthanda?
This milk-based drink rocks condensed milk, ice cream made from it, nannari syrup, and the partly edible almond gum. We’ve tasted Jigar Thanda at five spots, all claiming to be “World famous Jigar Thanda.” But according to us and my buddy Haresh from Madurai, the ultimate taste comes from the Famous Jigarthanda on East Marret street. Skip the canned stuff anywhere else in Tamil Nadu—it’s just not as good.
7. Walk in the Ancient streets of Madurai.
What is better than walking old streets around the palace & temple areas of the world’s one of oldest living cities?
Though ACP Cladded ugly buildings have taken over the ancient streets, there are some traces of old structures. You can see an influence of Colonial architecture too here. Plus, these areas give you a glimpse of local life. Ashrith discovered the secret of Madurai’s tasty mutton curry is their round red chilli in one of the shops in these alleys.
8. Have a blissful time in Teppakulam – Floating temple.
Our buddy Haresh asked us to meet him at “Theppakulam”. Though the word is understandable for any South Indians, I didn’t bother to wonder where I was going when I sat in that overpaid auto rickshaw. The driver stopped by a vast pond with an old temple in its centre. A beautiful temple is surrounded by water connected to the Vaigai river via underground canals in the heart of chaotic Madurai traffic! On one side, buses and cars are vrooming honkings.
On the other side, a temple was believed to be built for Lord Ganesh after his idol was found while digging for mud to bricks for the Meenakshi temple. The wide sidewalk with seating is decent enough for tourists like us to pause for 30 minutes to wonder at the temple on the tank. Haresh says Theppotsavam (floating festival) in January/February are a feast to eyes.
9. Visit Nayak’s palace to witness the Madurai Grandeur.
Pandyans, Cholas, Khilji’s Malik Kafur and Vijayanagar empire – There have been many rulers to Madurai in history. Vijayanagara (the Hampi kings) captured Madurai in the 1300s. Kings of this empire had a habit of leaving the captured land to governors called Nayaks for efficient administration. So Thirumalai Nayak built the palace & is decently maintained because many movie songs and scenes are filmed here, Like Tere Bina from Guru.
The 17th Century palace’s architect is Italian, and you find lots of European influence in the columns and roof. The fascinating ceilings reminded me of Iran with stalactites at places. A Part of the place reminded Ashrith of Udaipur fort also. So it is a hybrid palace of Italian+Islamic+Rajputana and course Dravidian style. The palace’s terrace is the most beautiful. Unfortunately, it was restricted to visitors in 2020- Many visitors have misused the wide terrace for alcohol, and workers found dozens of used condoms in the terrace!
10. Shop for Sungudi sarees.
My love(rather an obsession) over handloom sarees is one reason for travelling to particular places. So a reason why I travel to Madurai is one such saree – Sungudi.
Sungudi sarees made in Madurai are one of the softest fabrics you can ever use. The roots of this saree are so ancient old this is the saree worn by our great-grandmoms. When Saurashtrians of Gujarat migrated to South India, they brought the art of Bandini – Tie & dye technique.
There are many theories why Saurashtrians moved to the south from west India. After Mohammad Ghazni attacked them multiple times, they fled to Maharashtra. Vijayanagara kings noticed a new group of people struggling who were excellent at weaving. Their subordinates, Nayakas of Madurai, were asked to shelter the Saurashtrians, and they became principal weavers for the royal family.
So the legacy of Saurashtrians continues even today. They speak Tamil & Saurashtra languages and add a south Indian twist to their Bandhini sarees. For a long time, cotton threads were dyed using natural colours. But there they are replaced with synthetic colours too. South Masi streets have many shops that sell these sarees. Rani textiles are the most famous ones. If you want to see dyeing and weaving, you must visit villages outside Madurai.
11. Witness the 6th century BC Civilisation at Keeladi
Another best thing to do in Madurai to understand how ancient the city is to visit Keeladi. In 2015, a little village “Keeladi” revealed a buried town that dates back to the 6th century BC. The excavation process is under progress with little help from ASI & more help from local residents & authorities.
They have even found multiple skeletons in another site nearby that dates back to a similar era. Seeing those 2500yr old skeletons, clay pots and jars in the middle of a coconut grove is spine chilling and can make anyone wonder about the connection of this Sangam era town to the Indus valley in north India and other foreign civilisations. The coins and other findings have proved that this civilisation had trade connections with Greeks/Romans.
Reaching Keeladi is possible only by private vehicle. With the least help from the central government, don’t expect guides and historians to take you around the site and explain you!
14. Devour on delicious Madurai food
Most places in Tamil Nadu serve delcious food. But there is something in Madurai that makes it’s food even better. So the best thing to do before you travel to Madurai is to plan well to eat a lot!
People stick to pure veg food when you think of a temple town. Madurai surprises tourists with its non-veg content too. The food outlets called “Mess” is where you find most local food, especially for meat lovers.
Best places to eat local food in Madurai are
- Murugan Idli Shop : Podi Idli and Podi Dosa
- Sree Sabarees – Pure veg traditional Thali
- Idiyappam – Burma Idiyappam Kadai
- Bun Parota – Street Food
- Kumar Mess – Mutton Nenju soup and Mutton Chuka
- Kari Dosa – Konar Mess
- Sree Prema Vilas – Halwa and Murukus
15. Visit Vilacheri doll village
Throughout Navratri, setting up dolls for nine days has been a long-standing tradition.Originally, the dolls were crafted from traditional clay, but now, POP and plastic versions have taken over. Dasara Gollu, an intricate art, is mastered by only a handful of Indian villages, and Vilacheri is one of these gems.
Just a 10km Ola ride from Madurai leads you to this village—limited infrastructure but bursting with artistic talent. Watching these artists delicately sculpt clay with fragile fingers for tiny details is truly captivating.
Who makes the dolls in Vilachery?
Most homes in the village dive into this art, crafting dolls with diverse themes. They kick off doll-making post-Pongal in January, aiming to finish them by October. Their religious themes span Seeta-Raama’s wedding, Lord Vishnu’s 10 Avatars, Mysore Dasara Procession, Shiva’s Kailasa with family and disciples. Beyond religion, they craft cricket, school, farmer sets, and yes, even politicians!
My thoughts on Madurai, post Travel
Was the Madurai temple painted when it was built?
The Pandyans constructed it between the late 1190s and early 1200s AD, possibly adorned with natural hues. However, during the temple’s ongoing restoration, local authorities didn’t prioritize maintaining its originality. When UNESCO considered recognizing it, they diverged from the standards, opting for vivid synthetic colors, overlooking the impact of chemicals on the statues.
This decision may have stemmed from various reasons; if the temple earned UNESCO Heritage status, any commercial setup within a 300m radius had to be removed or relocated. This potential displacement likely led to the chaotic restoration efforts resisted by shop owners and residents.
Second thought
We understand our heritage better than anyone with such a strong history and culture But why rely on outsiders to protect it? We’re immensely proud yet somewhat ignorant about our legacy. In our developing nation, many lack basic necessities. So, is heritage more crucial than feeding those in need? Balancing both is tricky. Preserving our legacy matters, but so does addressing hunger. Maybe we can find a middle ground by using heritage to help those in need while safeguarding our history.
Third thought
As I complained about the statues being painted and using fluorescent colors, Ashirth ( a non-architect) had a different take. According to him, the bright colors help each statue stand out, gaining attention individually while contributing to the overall visual impact. The temple’s perimeter looks nice after the cleanup. But walking barefoot on that paving – Ouch! The stone with uneven finish is a pain for everyone. Turns out, they’re meant for snowy places where folks wear boots.
Lastly, the Vaigai river in Madurai
Legend has it that Lord Vishnu dipped in this river for Meenakshi and Sundareshwar’s wedding. But while the story sticks, the river’s fading away. So, during the Chitirai festival, the government sets up a temporary tank for the customary dip. Despite not flowing all year, its sorry state makes it tough to imagine how it still pulls in 10 lakh people during the festival! If we are so proud of our heritage, what wrong did we do and killed the river!
That is it! Madurai evokes peace, calmness and hundreds of thoughts!
Found our Madurai Travel Blog interesting? Let us know in the comment section below.
Leave a Reply