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Places to Visit in Anegundi on a day trip
Although I’d been to Hampi twice before, it wasn’t until my third visit that I went to Anegundi. Ashrith, who’s been to Hampi five times, just assumed Anegundi was another picturesque green village near Hampi and cycled through the plantations without exploring much. This is a common mistake most travelers who visit Hampi make – not visiting Anegundi, thinking there aren’t many places to see here. Sometimes it isn’t just a list of beautiful spots to see, but experience. Anegundi is such a gem not infected with mass tourism that gives you a charming semi-rural experience.
This blog post helps you avoid that mistake and shows you places to visit in Anegundi in one day and why visiting it is different from its mighty neighbor Hampi.
Index
- Practical Information
- What is Anegundi famous for?
- Places to visit and things to do in Anegundi
1. Where is Anegundi?
Anegundi is located near Hampi. While Hampi is on the Southern Bank of river Tungabhadra, Anegundi is on the North. On the map, Anegundi is about a km from Gejjala Mantapa in Hampi, but by road, it’s around 20 km away!
1a) How to get to Anegundi from Hampi
There are a few ways to get to Anegundi from Hampi: by car, bicycle/bike, or boat.
During the monsoon, rent a bicycle to reach Anegundi, even if it means getting a little wet. Ashrith says cycling there feels like paradise among the boulder hills and banana farms. If 20km is too far, rent a bike in Hampi, or book an auto rickshaw for a more relaxed trip. We drove our car to Anegundi instead.
Having a car gave us flexibility, like stopping at many places on the way from Hampi to Anegundi. You pass across empty quarries, rice fields with weird boulders in the center, and even the Bukkasagara bridge. But be careful while driving – the Hampi to Anegundi road is frequented by trucks. Plus, in many spots, transgenders stop the vehicles to collect money. They aren’t looters. But they won’t hesitate to literally come to the lane center, making you apply the brakes suddenly, especially on the Bukkasagara bridge.
To reach Anegundi from Hampi by boat, head to Talwarghatta ferry point near Vijaya Vittala temple. From there, a coracle boat will take you to Anegundi. Keep in mind that these services don’t operate year-round; it depends on the season, especially rain and water level in the river.
1b) How Long Should you spend in Anegundi Village?
It’s ideal to spend a day in Anegundi village if you’ve made Hampi your base. There are a few places to visit in Anegundi, though not as many as Hampi. Also accommodation options are fewer in Anegundi. So, I recommend spending five days in Hampi, out of which you can allocate one day to explore Anegundi village.
1c) Where to Stay and Eat in Anegundi?
If you don’t plan to make Anegundi your base for exploring Hampi, you don’t have to stay there. I suggest staying near Kamalpur and Virupaksha Temple or on Hippie Island instead of Anegundi, as you’ll find more options there. Uramma Heritage Home and Nirmala House are top places to stay in Anegundi. As an architect, I have read how beautifully these traditional Anegundi houses were restored into guesthouses with cafes. Their wooden pillars, chapadi stone flooring, and white-washed walls are beautiful.
I’m not sure if they’re still open for guests. When I visited Chintamani temple, I passed by, but it was closed. Check their Facebook page for updates. Alternatively, Coconut Tree Restaurant & Guesthouse offers accommodation in Anegundi.
Hoova Cafe and Brahmin’s place are decent place to fuel your stomach – They were good, but not as great as Taste of Brahmins or Sagar hotel in Hampi.
2. What is Anegundi famous for?
Anegundi is famous for it’s connection to Ramayana, Banana fibre products, beautiful scenery which is billions years old and as former capital of Vijayanagara kings before they built Hampi. For some reason, places in Anegundi doesn’t attract selfie stick and social media focussed tourists who visit Hampi for the same reason. It is usually cyclists from Hampi. Or people like us who just enjoys the rural areas with old style architecture unique to the area thriving with local community.
Anegundi is believed to be the mythical kingdom of Kishkindha, the home of the monkey god Hanuman in the Hindu epic Ramayana. It was Sugriva’s kingdom – Even today, you find hundreds of monkeys all over Anegundi. Plus, there are many Ramayana related places considered holy and auspicious by Hindus.
Monkeys’ favourite food is banana. Being home to the monkey gods, Anegundi is all about bananas. The beauty of bananas in Anegundi isn’t just that they’re delicious. But their fibre is a major source of eco-friendly products crafted by women. So, Anegundi and banana fibre products are synonymous.
3. Places to Visit and Things to do in Anegundi Village
3a) . Visit Banana Fibre Workshop at TKT
The first and foremost reason for you to visit Anegundi is to explore the Banana Fibre Workshop managed by the Kishkinda Trust. There have been thousands of innovations related to banana fibre. In fact, Japan’s currency yen is partly made of banana fibre. But what happens in Anegundi is different – the trust, established in 1997, is run by women for women. Although it’s in the heart of Anegundi village, among tourists it’s commonly known as the Banana Craft Shop near Hampi.
From collecting fibres to selling the craft, local women of Anegundi are in the lead. The way their hands move swiftly, knitting a simple pencil stand to a complex chandelier, is hypnotic to see.
To reach the TKT Banana Fibre Workshop, enter Anegundi and park near Gagan Mahal. Walk 100m through a narrow alley. On your left, you’ll see the Grama Panchayat and an Anganavadi. In the same compound, a charming house with mustard paint and blue windows welcomes you, hinting at the fantastic crafts inside.
Best time to visit Anegundi Banana Fibre Workshop
Best time to visit the workshop is on weekdays, so that you get to see the craft in making. Women who works here usually don’t come in on Sundays, but they’re there on all other days from 10:30 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 5 pm. But it is best to email TKT before you visit to be sure on their working days – They replied to me within 2 hours.
Knowing Kannada takes you a long way, like it did for me. I talked to many artists, asking them the silliest of silly questions about their craft. They were all smiles and enthusiastic to show me their skills. Obviously, they were a bit shy initially. But once you call them “Akka,” which means elder sister in Kannada, and talk to them politely, they open up. I could learn a lot about the making ( Read my detail article on banana fiber craft published on DH here) They aren’t pushy, forcing you to buy what they make. But on your visit, it’s always good to buy at least one product – after all, you’ve used much of their time.
Heads up: Don’t treat the artists like props for your photos. Ask for permission before clicking, and behave responsibly. A visit to the workshop may be part of our vacation, but it’s their livelihood. So don’t waste too much of their time or disturb them solely for your social media photos.
What Banana fibre products can you buy here?
You can purchase their products on the spot. I bought a handbag for Rs. 1650 and loved it. Another great buy is Hanuman dolls. Anegundi’s connection to the Ramayana and its ties to Sugriva’s kingdom make these dolls meaningful souvenirs. What’s special is that they’re crafted by Muslim women – India’s diversity and harmony.
If you’re into setting up a fancy dining area, their table mats and dining table runners made of banana fibres are too pretty to say no to.
3b) . Explore Shri Chintamani Temple
Hampi temples are all about grandeur and the finest Dravidian architecture. No doubt, I love them. But while reading about Anegundi, what caught my eyes is Sri Chintamani temple – there is no towering gopuram nor mantapas with extremely detailed carvings of yalis here. Simple stone structure with a cave, right beside the Tungabhadra river.
It definitely won’t be your “love at first sight” monument. But as you walk through the entrance mantapa, the sight of the river between the stone columns quenches all your tiredness. We must sit here at this mantapa for about an hour!
The riverside near Chintamani temple is popular among three kinds of crowds – pilgrims who like to sit and chant Hanuman Chalisa or do other divine melodious bhajans on the steps. The next crowd you will see here is wedding photoshoot couples who stand on the boulders and make all possible poses as if they are part of a romantic Indian movie. The third is those who simply watch all these like us.
What is the most special thing about Anegundi Temple?
Sugriva’s Cave is the most beautiful part of Anegundi Chintamani temple. Vali and Sugriva are brothers.According to the Ramayana, Sugriva and Vali, two brothers, had a tumultuous relationship over their monkey kingdom. When Lord Rama visited Anegundi during his quest for Sita, he struck a deal with Sugriva here.
Sugriva agreed to assist Rama in his battle against Ravana, and in return, Rama pledged to help Sugriva defeat Vali and claim his rightful kingship. The cave within Chintamani temple is believed to be the site where these agreements were made. With its dimly lit interior, the cave exudes a special aura. Devotees worship the footprints of Rama found inside, and a recent addition is a beautifully painted mural depicting the conversation between Rama and Sugriva, which has become my favorite feature of the Chintamani temple.
3c) Wander in the streets of Anegundi Village
I never sugarcoat things; I admit much of India needs a huge makeover in terms of hygiene. So many villages and cities in India aren’t really good for taking a stroll through the streets just to observe local life. But Anegundi village is one of the few exceptions – it is cleaner. When I say clean, don’t imagine rural areas of Japan. But it is way better than many rural areas of India, and walking in the streets of Anegundi is really amazing.
What makes Anegundi village streets charming
First off, Anegundi maintains its authenticity without being overrun by mass tourism. Most houses along the road still sport the local architectural style. You’ll notice small front yards made of mud, often coated with cow dung paste – a throwback for me! Back home in Chikmagalur, we did the same to keep our mud floors tidy and fungal-free. The sturdy wooden columns support the flat roof overhang in front of stone walls, adding to the village’s rustic beauty.
Then you spot a “Jagali” or “Katte” – a short elevated platform in the front yard. This is usually occupied by men who are chilling with a “beedi” after coming back from their farm work or older men – Beedi is a hand-rolled cigarette made of unprocessed tobacco wrapped in leaves. They would also have two goats tied nearby.
The guys chilling there are often quite talkative and friendly. They’re really curious about where you’re from and what you’re up to. As we strolled towards Chintamani temple, every few houses, these friendly locals would ask us about our plans. We’d chat about the differences between my forest-filled hometown and their village. Some even gave us tips on places to check out in and around Anegundi. And don’t be shocked if they offer you some buttermilk after just a quick chat! The streets of Anegundi are just so lively and cheerful.
Anegundi village preservation
Nativity also comes with some unorganised chaos and filth. But with the help of the local community, INTACH (headed by founder of RKR) has been working to preserve the natural, cultural, and intangible heritage of Anegundi, along with maintaining the village cleaner.
3d) Wonder what Gagan Mahal is
Gagan Mahal is a palace that belonged to the rulers of the Vijayanagara Empire. If you’ve already been to Lotus Mahal in Hampi, you can notice a bit of similarity between the two – the stepped roofing and fenestrated upper floor. I say wonder what it is because the current condition of Gagan Mahal is strange.
It is located right in the heart of Anegundi village with the main road on one side and an empty ground in the front. The ornate “Jharoka” kind of projection, stepped roofing even reminds you of the grandeur of Rajasthan. The empty grounds in the front where cows chill leave a big void in the front, giving this palace a larger-than-life appearance. The tiny door takes you to the inside of the palace. Once you enter, you will be shocked – because the palace gets over as soon as you enter! You neither see halls nor courtyards. Instead, you hit the wall of the local house! The palace was ruined so much at the end of the 16th century that only the front facade of it is left. Fortunately, conservation architects were able to restore the facade to the maximum.
3e) Walk on the bunds of rice fields
You’ll come across rice fields in many places across southern India, but Anegundi rice fields have a different vibe. Why? Because they’re dotted with boulders!
Usually, you see the rice fields stretching to infinity, but here, you’ll spot some elephant or camel-shaped giant boulder smack in the middle of the green carpet. Being one of the oldest places on earth (according to geologists), it’s got to have these weird-shaped yet pretty stone giants.
Monsoon is the season when they plant the crops. During that time, the fields feel like a festival, with farmers and workers bustling about. But the fields stay green until March or sometimes April when they harvest.
3f) Hike through Anegundi Fort
When Ashrith cycled from Hampi to Anegundi in 2007, he cycled in Anegundi fort. It is 2km away from Anegundi village. Hike to the hilltop isn’t as difficult as it would be to Anjanadri hill – the slope is not steep. Two stout stone walls with a doorway in the centre are all that remains now. The walkway takes you through several temples, shrines where anthills are worshipped, and also a Goshala.
I won’t say Anegundi fort is a must-visit place. The hilltop view is nice, but not the greatest. Go here only if you have plenty of time. I wish I had spent more time in Anegundi village than hiking here.
3g) End your day with a stunning sunset
While it’s best to spend time indoors at Chintamani temple or at the Kishkinda Trust, you’ve got to go out during sunset. Pick any of the river edges to watch the sunset in Anegundi, like near Huchhappayya Mantapa or in Talwar Ghatta. Another option is either Sanapur lake or Anjanadri hill, both beautiful.
I love Sanapur lake sunset because the crowd is thinner by evening. There isn’t a specific spot to watch the sunset, but the way the boulder mountains hug the lake and the sky behind them turns bright orange is magical.
Plus, sitting on the lake bund, you can either watch the lake glitter copper or the rice fields on the other side glowing. It’s the time when Banjara community folks who live nearby go home. The boatmen are free, and you can always talk to them while watching the sunset, asking how their experience living amidst tourists feels.
Which of these places in Anegundi would you love to visit? Let us know in the comment section below.
